Recent content by jwood

My concern is that the temperature was dropping before I realized to take it out to quench. It does seems slightly harder it’ll skate my file when I try to draw file my flat grind but the file will bite into the edge. I would just hate to give a costumer a blade with a questionable heat treat...

So I was heat treating an AEB-L santoku I’m making for a customer, 20 minutes at 1560°F and 8 out of the 15 minutes at 1940°F. I left the room for a bit and came back and the readout of the kiln was at 1320°F my elements burned out and I said lots of four letter words. I have new elements on...

80CrV2 Bowie with a dyed curly maple handle and a brass guard: 80CrV2 boat knife with OD green canvas micarta scales: 15N20 paring knife with crotch walnut scales:

I just got back a quote and after shipping the evenheat KF18 I was looking at would $1000. I'm looking to buy a kiln to heat treat stainless steels and air hardening tool steels. I would like to keep it around $800 and hopefully something in 220v, if possible. I'm in Georgia but I wouldn't mind...

Hey guys I've been on this site a while but haven't posted much in recent years. I'm a maker from Marietta, GA and I mainly do stock removal and prefer traditional style Bowies. Although I do have some cable in the mail to try my hand at some cable Damascus. I'm interested to see who all is...

I wait and powder coat between my first and second temper cycle so I don't ruin my temper when curing the coat.

So I have to powder coat a couple of neck knives (at the request of the customer). Now my question lies in the process of my electro etched makers mark, I figure the powder coat will cover it up, so should I make sure I get a really deep etch or try to cover the etch with something before powder...

The 5160 I need is out of stock and need to finish this one soon, so I've been looking into the 80CrV2 and am really liking what I'm seeing about how tough and durable it is. I'm thinking that's the direction I'm going to go thanks for the input.

I'm currently conversing with Aldo to see if I can get a piece of 5160 wide enough for my project. If I can't get a piece wide enough what would be a suitable replacement? Also due to the size of the knife its larger than my heat treat equipment so I plan to use Peter's Heat Treat to do the...

Working on a meat cleaver and wanted to know what handle material would be best for the kitchen. This is my first "kitchen knife" so I was leaning towards a micarta handle that would be less maintenance than any wood handle. Also would corby bolts work better so the handle could be removed for...

I'm making a meat cleaver for a friend's daughter who's graduating from culinary school this year. She wants one that'll hack through bone and large carcasses when preparing meals. Naturally Im starting with 1/4" thick stock but I am stuck on what steel to use, she wants a carbon steel knife. My...

Thanks for all the advice! I think I've decided on the Coote. Assuming I should get it with the ceramic platen liner?

I've been making knives for several years and finally built a 2x72, all out of wood even turned the wheels, and it works well but not great. For the $60 I have in it it's way better than my 1x30. I currently have $400 and am looking at an entry line, production grinder for stock removal, mostly...

Thanks Laurence, I guess I'll have to look into the craftsman. However is there maybe a cheaper way into a 2x72 aside from the Coote?

So I've been making knives for a couple years now and I am sick of my 1x30 and filling jig. It can take a week to do one knife! and I have six sitting on my bench right now. So Im looking at the kalamazoo 2x48 (with out the motor) and the 2x48 multi tool. I know everyone will say the KMG or...