If you press the ladder in too late in the bar forming process, and then forge it back flat, when you grind your bevel, you don't get all the way through the jacket portion.
Just press it in earlier.
Also, the stainless doesn't move the same amount as the tool steel. You can literally squeeze...
What I would do is press the ladder in a little earlier. The press back flat and reduce to final thickness. That way you don't have the outer jacket going all the way to the edge.
You don't want that 'cause it won't harden.
I don't think you'd want to use ladder dies - would you?
Won't you just end up with stripes?
I have no idea how you make you billets or from what.
I would run mine through, but I don't think I'd like the effect.
I've been "preaching" your point for years - thanks for saying it.
My quote has always been, "When you're sanding out scratches - you're not sanding the scratches. You're sanding everything that's NOT a scratch."
You need to take everything down equal to the bottom of the scratches.
The 'secret' to a really beautiful imperfection free mirror polish is not the result of high-quality buffing.
A good mirror polish is the result of effective sanding.
You don't remove imperfections in your work piece by buffing.
You need everything perfect at 2000 grit, or 3000 grit. Then...
I'm certainly going to try to make it this year.
Tracy twisted my arm, so I may be doing a knife fittings "fitting" talk/demo/Q&A.
I've done full four hour talks on take down knives, which are mostly about getting all the parts fitted up, so we may just be covering the basics.
If I see some...