Recent content by Oldnretired

I have noticed that alot of folks obsess over "hair popping" sharpness. Going to extremes polishing the bevel with rouge on a strop etc. That's all good if one intends to shave with it but otherwise ? The only knives I own that I put that much effort into the edges are my fillet knives...

Thank You.

Wasn't happy with the dye job on the little sheath I posted about before so I just re-did some cut outs to start over. Interesting effects with the shaving cream method. Colors used-yellow, chocolate. oxblood, dark red and cardovan (Fiebings LeatherColors). I like the effect better on these...

One thing of note with the shaving cream style. I first tried it with alcohol based dye and the dye just ate right through the shaving cream without lying on top. The article I read actually said to use the alcohol type. Upon further investigating the technique I soon learned to use water...

Here is the long sheath finished. No belt loop. The sheath is just to protect the dagger during transport etc. I usually keep the dagger wrapped in cotton flannel and in the gun safe. The smaller one is for a small knife that goes well with the dagger. Same maker, materials & time frame...

I like the orientation of that wenge, very nice. The pins set it off well.

Thanks. Yes a variation on the shaving cream style of "marbelized dyeing". Instead of smoothing out the shaving cream and swirling the dye on top then pressing the leather into it I scooped some up (with a gloved hand) and just pressed it against the leather and left for a few minutes. Then...

These are nothing fancy but I have a few knives that are in what I consider sub-par sheaths. Either too thin and floppy or unsafe.

Axis deer antler is another good one. Very dense with just the little hole down the center (approx.) like Sambar. I bought four fairly straight 6" rounds from a texas rancher online (eBay I think) round to oval in cross section, 1" to 1 1/4". Very dense and heavy. Not much in the way of...

Drop point wih a comfortable handle and a 3" to 4" blade for EDC. As opaul opined a bit of a belly so it can be used to process game as well as cut rope, food etc......................

Even though micarta etc. is quite popular now days I really like the work you do with antler. Moose antler is very nice "in the hand". I tend to gravitate more towards what feels best vs the looks. Ergomonics and all that. The density of moose antler and the way it feels in my hand...

Scrimshaw. Not an easy art to master.

I'm a bit late with my reply. No guess as to the maker but the handle on the second knife looks like stabilized wildebeast or Kudu bone. I have a couple from Jantz Supply that look very similar to that.

I've often been tempted to ask the same thing. Beautiful work done in quantity. I only repair, handle blade blanks and restore. Your productivity leaves me in the dust and you create the whole knife. KUDOS........................

Durability is what you want for wood exposed to the elements. Durability and density or hardness are different. When describing durability in wood, resistance to rot equals durability regardless of the density or hardness of the wood. Think of redwood vs oak. Oak is much harder and denser but...