Wilson Hardness Tester

Randy Lucius

Well-Known Member
I have the opportunity to purchase a Wilson hardness tester from a knife maker’s estate if we can come to terms on price. These were manufactured from 1945-1960. It weights 325 lbs. Yep 325. According to what I have been reading they are pretty much bulletproof. It’s an interesting machine and I hope we can make a deal on it.
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What Model is it?? I bought one but its not that heavy. Bet its 1/2 that? I'll tell you what I was told make sure all the weights are there they can be hard to find and they are expensive to replace. Also the Diamond Penitrator is expensive to replace if you get a Wilson. I would also get a Cslibrated Test Block. I bought one on Ebsy for 40 bucks.
 
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What Model is it?? I bought one but its not that heavy. Bet its 1/2 that? I'll tell you what I was told make sure all the weights are there they can be hard to find and they are expensive to replace. Also the Diamond Penitrator is expensive to replace if you get a Wilson. I would also get a Cslibrated Test Block. I bought one on Ebsy for 40 bucks.
It’s a model 4JR. Weight is listed here. I have a test block that came with my Ames tester so I’m good there.
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I just refurbished a 4JR unit and, while it is heavy, it is not that heavy; a young man, with a good back, could heft it into your car. The weight quoted by BRYSTAR no doubt includes the crating, packaging and accessories. That being said- don't move it with the weights on the unit. The 1JR, 2JR, 3JR and 4JR, were the most common units and the only difference between then is the distance possible between anvil and the penetrator, allowing for increasingly larger work. The 1JR would be ideal for most knifemakers and would take up the least amount of head space, but I own a 3JR and love it.

As has been mentioned, the weights are the deal clincher, it is very rare to find them with all the weights and if you do your are lucky. The unit in your picture has two of the three weights showing, on the bench just behind the unit, there is a third to equal the 150Kg load necessary for "C" scale measurement. Also- do not move it, or allow it to be moved, without blocking up the load beam so that it is not sitting on the knives (pivot point fulcrums) when moved. This is the biggest mistake everybody makes when they move them, even many places that sell them used.

It is also not a good idea to move them with the dashpot full of oil, it will make a mess. And the first thin you will want to do, when it is at your, place is make sure the dashpot is full- never cycle it with an empty dashpot. It is also wise to remove the anvil while moving, but always remove the penetrator first, or hold a couple of fingers over the top of the anvil, between it and the penetrator, when you remove it. We all say we can be careful enough but it only takes one little tunk of the anvil to ruin a$300 penetrator.
 
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Hold on! I just looked at your picture again and noticed the toggle switch and electrical cord on that unit. These normally don't have anything electrical, so I would guess that this is one of the delux models with and automatic unloader, if so I would be all over that thing! The average knifemaker may not find it as valuable, but for the precision lab work that I do the automatic unloader will give you the very best repeatable results.

Oh, and by the way- that unit could easily fetch $1,100 among those who know these machines, it is in VERY good condition, from looking at the picture.
 
Kevin, I asked the question about electrical and Randy says it's just a work light. Machine is totally manual.

Does the Wilson take the same diamond penetrator as the HR-150a? What manufacturer is the HR-150a a clone of?

There are plenty of HR-150a diamond penetrators on ebay for $20 range. I purchased a spare for my HR-150a a few yr back when I had to pay $32 and it's works good. I can swap original diamond penetrator with cheap replacement and the readings are the same, no need to re-calibrate.
 
I just refurbished a 4JR unit and, while it is heavy, it is not that heavy; a young man, with a good back, could heft it into your car. The weight quoted by BRYSTAR no doubt includes the crating, packaging and accessories. That being said- don't move it with the weights on the unit. The 1JR, 2JR, 3JR and 4JR, were the most common units and the only difference between then is the distance possible between anvil and the penetrator, allowing for increasingly larger work. The 1JR would be ideal for most knifemakers and would take up the least amount of head space, but I own a 3JR and love it.

As has been mentioned, the weights are the deal clincher, it is very rare to find them with all the weights and if you do your are lucky. The unit in your picture has two of the three weights showing, on the bench just behind the unit, there is a third to equal the 150Kg load necessary for "C" scale measurement. Also- do not move it, or allow it to be moved, without blocking up the load beam so that it is not sitting on the knives (pivot point fulcrums) when moved. This is the biggest mistake everybody makes when they move them, even many places that sell them used.

It is also not a good idea to move them with the dashpot full of oil, it will make a mess. And the first thin you will want to do, when it is at your, place is make sure the dashpot is full- never cycle it with an empty dashpot. It is also wise to remove the anvil while moving, but always remove the penetrator first, or hold a couple of fingers over the top of the anvil, between it and the penetrator, when you remove it. We all say we can be careful enough but it only takes one little tunk of the anvil to ruin a$300 penetrator.
Kevin, thank you so much for the information! I made a deal for the tester for $300. Will be picking it up next weekend when he’s back in town. I downloaded the manual and I’ll be re-reading your post. The machine is in great condition and the last thing I want to do is ruin it in the move. Glad to know it’s not as heavy as I thought. May have a few questions for you on blocking the load beams and other precautions during the move. I see you mentioned some other things in your post. Really appreciate your input on this!
 
Kevin, I asked the question about electrical and Randy says it's just a work light. Machine is totally manual.

Does the Wilson take the same diamond penetrator as the HR-150a? What manufacturer is the HR-150a a clone of?

There are plenty of HR-150a diamond penetrators on ebay for $20 range. I purchased a spare for my HR-150a a few yr back when I had to pay $32 and it's works good. I can swap original diamond penetrator with cheap replacement and the readings are the same, no need to re-calibrate.
Ken, as I learn more about the machine I may be in error. It could be a deluxe model. We’ll see I guess. Kevin is really helping me learn more about it and it’s greatly appreciated.
 
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