ArmorAll finish giving me fits

KentuckyFisherman

Well-Known Member
For wood scales, both stabilized and not, I usually use an oil blend called Arrow Wood Finish. I love it, but it's a slow, slow, slow process. Been reading about the Armor All and Tru-Oil finish where you supposedly can get at least 4-5 layers added in one evening. I've been working with it on some scales now for a couple of weeks and it doesn't seem to be working right to me. Hoping someone here can help.

I'm working with some thula burl scales that are dry and hard, but not stabilized. I'm putting one drop of Armor All on one side, spreading it with a fingertip, then adding one drop of Tru-Oil in the middle. I start mixing and spreading the oil with my naked fingertip and a slightly cloudy emulsion forms. Keep rubbing and the mix starts drying fairly quick. As the surface starts getting gummy/tacky, I've been making long strokes, trying to level everything out. Then I do the same on the other side. One drop of each ingredient.

At this point there is a tacky film on the wood, so I stand the blade up, held vertical with a small clamp on the blade and let it dry for a couple hours up to overnight. Regardless of drying time, when I come back to the handle it's still tacky to the touch. I've been using a clean cotton rag and buffing the surface slicker before adding a new coat.

Regardless of what I do, I haven't been able to get the finish to dry hard and smooth. I've tried 2-1 Armor All, 2-1 oil and neither seems to change how it ends up. Does this issue have something to do with the type wood? Thula is supposedly in the cedar family, but it doesn't seem either oily or too dense. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks in advance for any help or pointers you can offer.
 
I have never used stabilized wood. But whatever finish I use the first coat seems to take forever to dry. The following coats seem to dry really quick. FYI
But I'm not mixing finish material. I use a Butcher block finish that's food grade applicable that applies like tung oil. I bought it at a local big box lumber store. Lowes.
 
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I use the tru-oil/armorall finish. From the sounds of it you are using too much tru-oil. It should dry to a lightly tacky feel in about 15 minutes. Then it's ready for the next coat.

I do a light "spritz" of armor all on each side, spread it thin. Then using a Tshirt and my finger I dip into the tru-oil and get a maybe a dime sized amount. Then I rub that on the handle until it gets that whitish color. Spread it around good, wiping in one direction and only leave a thin coat. No globs or thick areas.

After about 6 coats I'll let it dry over night. Then smooth things out with some 000 steel wool, and keep going until I have 20 coats.

Even the oilyest woods will take the finish. African Blackwood is one of those and it will look great.
 
I use the tru-oil/armorall finish. From the sounds of it you are using too much tru-oil. It should dry to a lightly tacky feel in about 15 minutes. Then it's ready for the next coat.

I do a light "spritz" of armor all on each side, spread it thin. Then using a Tshirt and my finger I dip into the tru-oil and get a maybe a dime sized amount. Then I rub that on the handle until it gets that whitish color. Spread it around good, wiping in one direction and only leave a thin coat. No globs or thick areas.

After about 6 coats I'll let it dry over night. Then smooth things out with some 000 steel wool, and keep going until I have 20 coats.

Even the oilyest woods will take the finish. African Blackwood is one of those and it will look great.
Hey Chris, I've tried this process a couple of times and didn't feel the results were very good. Questions: do you the "Original" version of Armor All, or some other variation? Do you let the Armor All dry before putting on the TruOil? Then how much do you rub it to remove the whitish color?
How well does this finish hold up, say, compared to just TruOil finish?
I've got a couple of handles in process and may try this finish again.
Bob
 
Hey Chris, I've tried this process a couple of times and didn't feel the results were very good. Questions: do you the "Original" version of Armor All, or some other variation? Do you let the Armor All dry before putting on the TruOil? Then how much do you rub it to remove the whitish color?
How well does this finish hold up, say, compared to just TruOil finish?
I've got a couple of handles in process and may try this finish again.
Bob
1) I just grab the ArmorAll original.
2) No, the armorall should still be wet. You spray it on (light, just wet) and then immediately do the Tru-oil
3) I put my finger in a t-shirt and dip that into the tru-oil and get a spot about the size of a dime. (use gloves). Then go all around the handle mixing the two. Then just keep rubbing in one direction (I generally go front to back since I'm holding the blade in one hand and wiping with the other). Eventually the mix will spread/even out, plus some soaks into the shirt and the whitish color is gone. I do 20 coats and sometimes a little more. You can do a little rub down between coats and after 8 or more I'll also do a light rub with 000 steel wool.
4) It holds up very well. Just as good as truoil, this just make it dry a little faster.

To put my money where my mouth is, here's 3 of a set of 4 steak knives (for me) that I'm just finishing up the final coats. African Blackwood and mammoth. #4 will be blue.


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1) I just grab the ArmorAll original.
2) No, the armorall should still be wet. You spray it on (light, just wet) and then immediately do the Tru-oil
3) I put my finger in a t-shirt and dip that into the tru-oil and get a spot about the size of a dime. (use gloves). Then go all around the handle mixing the two. Then just keep rubbing in one direction (I generally go front to back since I'm holding the blade in one hand and wiping with the other). Eventually the mix will spread/even out, plus some soaks into the shirt and the whitish color is gone. I do 20 coats and sometimes a little more. You can do a little rub down between coats and after 8 or more I'll also do a light rub with 000 steel wool.
4) It holds up very well. Just as good as truoil, this just make it dry a little faster.

To put my money where my mouth is, here's 3 of a set of 4 steak knives (for me) that I'm just finishing up the final coats. African Blackwood and mammoth. #4 will be blue.


View attachment 85663
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View attachment 85665
Chris, nice finish on those knives. I'll give the ArmorAll finishing process a try. Thanks
 
I have been using Danish oil on curly maple handles for quite a while .....about 5 coats ....one a day for 5 days...it penetrates the wood and hardens.....it allows me to buff the handle to a high polish on a soft wheel with white compound.....great gloss finish.......I am wondering about a good sealing finish for thuya burl myself.....I was thinking beeswax?
 
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