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  1. Stacy Apelt

    S35vn heat treat question

    I know this thread is a year old, but here is my CPM-S35VN recipe: Program HT oven: STEP 1 = RAMP to 1600F, hold for 30 minutes. This allows the oven to heat up and stabilize. It also allows me to do other stuff instead of waiting and watching the readout. STEP 2 = RAMP to 1950F at 9999...
  2. Stacy Apelt

    Vertical Gas Heat Treat Furnace WIP

    I'll toss out some suggestions: The exhaust port needs to be about three times the inlet port size. For a forge like this I would use a 3" exhaust. There has to be enough room to prevent excessive back-pressure, or the burner won't run well. Use insulboard forn the lid, and forget the metal...
  3. Stacy Apelt

    Non Blade welding problem

    I had the identical problem. A new liner solved it.
  4. Stacy Apelt

    Kiln converted to HT oven

    The only thing I see missing is a heat sink for the SSR and maybe a cooling fan blowing through it. I also would put some sort of cover over the SSR and all that exposed 220VAC wiring.
  5. Stacy Apelt

    Hydraulic power press & gas forge

    Darren Ellis has everything you need, and his FAQ pages will tell a lot on the "How To" for his supplies. Satanite is a refractory coating. ITC-100 is a reflective coating put over the cured satanite.
  6. Stacy Apelt

    Making stain for maple

    David, If all you want is to contrast the hard and soft layers of maple,or just change the color, then dye is great. It will develop the color differences pretty distinctly, and you can pick your color choice. However, that is only part of what the ferric acid treatment does (ferric nitrate...
  7. Stacy Apelt

    First Ever heat treating!

    The problems with doing test like your is that the most important parameter is totally uncontrolled.....austenitization temperature. And, the soak timing was wrong. The temps and soak times for austinitization are: 5160 - 1525F for 5 min. 1080 & 1084 - 1500F no soak required, but 1 min...
  8. Stacy Apelt

    Solder Help!!

    This is the answer I posted on BF: I will wade into try and explain the terms used. The wording can confuse people who don't know the difference. I work with solders and brazes every day. A solder is a eutectic alloy of metals that have a melting point lower than the individual...
  9. Stacy Apelt

    How Young is too young

    I saw it as a "Show You Kids" thread. I didn't assume they were really working in the shop. The thread title was tongue in cheek. Showing them the shop, letting them hear it directly from you that it is off limits unless you take them there, and doing fun things with them that are age...
  10. Stacy Apelt

    steel ? Can someone help me out?

    Power hack saw blades are often M2. The term high speed molybdenum steel is commonly used to describe these blades. Since annealing and normalizing these alloys is difficult, it is best to grind it hard. One plus is that the steel can take a lot more heat than the 450F that ruins most carbon...
  11. Stacy Apelt

    Show your swords!!!

    Yes, The PVC tube has soft wooden inside wedges that hold the blade securely. If wrapping a tsuka without the blade, I fashion a wooden or metal tsunagi (temporary blade). The frame is just wood ,with "U" shaped cradles. The bungee cords provide a tight ,but rotatable friction to hold everything...
  12. Stacy Apelt

    information for a complete "newbie" to japanese swords / Katana?

    I have some nice customs in the 5K to 10K area that I am working on, and a set that will run about 12K. These have a way to go before the togi is done, but will be available by the end of the year. There is an old style ( 7th-8th century) san-mai wakizashi available now for $2500. All the...
  13. Stacy Apelt

    Show your swords!!!

    A few more good shots: Finished wrap on above Naginata - 8 feet OAL, 36" blade
  14. Stacy Apelt

    Show your swords!!!

    OK, a few tuska shots: Gold menuki ,silver and gold fittings for a sword that I have not yet released pictures of. Last shot is my tsuka-maki stand, sword is the wakizashi in last post.
  15. Stacy Apelt

    Show your swords!!!

    And a few more: 1) handle closeup of last sword 2) a few full size blades after HT (18" to 40") 3-5) Wakizashi with mokume koshirae (30"OAL)
  16. Stacy Apelt

    Show your swords!!!

    What the heck, I'll post a few shots of some of mine: 1) Belly Button Sword made in 14K gold - 3" 2) Mini Wakizashi - all the parts are there - 2"; steel ,14K, platinum 3) Mini saber - damascus blade,gold handle parts, sterling sheath - 4" 4-5) Mini katana - Damascus blade,14K and 18K...
  17. Stacy Apelt

    need help stocking the shop

    When you are a knifemaker...everything looks like either blade material or handle material. Keep an eye open for old furniture being tossed on trash day, ancient trees being cut down by a landscaper, and wooden objects at yard sales and flea markets. I once bought a 3 foot tall, hand...
  18. Stacy Apelt

    Leather belt ??

    Try Leatherweld instead of Barge. Stacy
  19. Stacy Apelt

    India Stones??

    I agree with leaving the dished stones as they are. However ,to flatten a stone, you use a dressing/flattening stone. In Japanese it is called an arato...litterally "Rough Stone". You can buy modern dressing stones from Woodcraft and other woodworking suppliers. It is a coarse grit ( usually...
  20. Stacy Apelt

    Has anyone made damascus chisels?

    I would make a ni-mai blade with a round through tang. Forge weld some twist pattern damascus to a bar of 1080-1095-W1/2 . Grind the chisel so the mono-steel is the edge. I did some ni-mai kitchen blades using a couple bars of Thunderforge Damascus and 1095...worked fine. Stacy (ni-mai...