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Two of my MC belt knives in handrubbed 440c and Micartas. I carry an older version of these in 1080 and maple everyday, it is in my pocket as I write this, and I use it for almost everything you need a daily knife for. These both have crossdraw veg tan leather sheaths and I can make kydex for...

These were a custom order from a repeat customer. Recurve Bowie in 440c and Clip point hunter in D2. Dovetailed brass bolsters, tapered tang on the hunter. Hunter is handrubbed, hollow ground, and has a swedge. Bowie is machine finished, flat ground, and has a rounded spine. These recent sheaths...

Recurve Bowie in 440c and Maple. There is maple burl on this side and birdseye on the other side, I think the burl is nicer and would like to get it stabilized.

Forecast said 112 in Vancouver today....

^What BillyO said^ to add to that, if you are using 3/16in drill bits for 3/16in pins you may find the pins to be too tight. The thread below might help you out. Also, I buy my drill bits from drillsandcutters.com. https://knifedogs.com/threads/pin-hole-sizing-what-method-do-you-use.51708/

This is the first Nessmuk I've ever made. I really like the shape, but next time I would leave out the large choil and take the blue tape off before it started to patina the bevels. It is also the 100th knife I've made and the final picture is it with the first "knife" I ever made. D2, tapered...

Thank you!

Thank you. I put a lot more thinner in, and was able to get some usable cement in there, but it is still dark and thick. Maybe I'll put even more thinner in and see what happens. What type of cement do you use?

My contact cement has gone stiff (jiggly) and black. I added thinner, but nothing is happening. Is this a common problem? Any help appreciated.

Thinner than 1/8, don't grind in bevels. Never sent out blades for heat treating, so maybe they are less likely to warp than home ht, I don't know. My 2 cents, take it for what it's worth.

Thanks guys, that is what I was hoping to hear. Will leave tang at 50. Rest of blade is ground to 120 or 220.

Thanks! Don't see anything anytime soon close to me.

I've been grinding some knives pre ht, specifically grinding a shallow trough in the handle with a wheel to reduce weight and increase epoxy adhesion. My question is whether it is ok to leave this trough at 50 grit (which is what I ground it at), or whether I should take it to 120 to reduce...

Those are cool. Look very production!

Yeah! There are some gun and knife shows locally, but I am unsure of the market for handmade knives in them. I guess I'll have to visit them and see.

Never worked with those steels, and am a newbie myself, so take what I say with a grain of salt, but I would say that you shouldn't have any problems waiting to temper with those steels. I've seen people say that D2 especially should be tempered as soon as possible to retain high hardness, but...

Anyone have a list of knife shows? I've been to Bladeshow West (spectator) a couple years back, and was wanting to go to OKCA (table) this past April before you know who shut it down, but do not know if there is a list somewhere that someone could point me to, especially in the NW. Thanks!

Those are looking great! Love the Ironwood

When working a plungeless knife, I always try to leave more meat at the back edge than you think you need, rather than grinding really far under the handle. You don't need the knife sharp all the way up to the finger stop. Hope that makes sense. It takes a little practice, at least for me.

Thanks guys!