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I would say no… not if those are the spec.s all furnaces have variations in temp somewhere in them, the firther you go from the thermocouple, the further it goes from target temp… i use a variable output controller into a solid state relay and my oven overshoots mostly with a degree or two...

I used to believe the same, and it is a factor in warping… but not the only one… the steel in coils are the original shape, and even an anneal wont sort it out. Clamping in plates sorts it out mostly, unless you go to the plates to late from oil, or too erly oit of the plates, and into the LN.

Thank you for the kind words!

The hardest thing when edges get this thin, is to keep them even in thickness so that it flexes the same everywhere, if not you get bits that won’t sharpen, or bits that sharpen a divot… and you very quickly double the stiffness of the edge in some sections

Ther are no secrets… and mistakes happen… and i am far from a fine craftsman yet, i am more of the good tool that might be rough around the edges category… but i know a few who fit the bill… and they are most generous with their knowledge… i do grind freehand, i think a jig would make me more...

A batch done for my retail partner

As long as i don’t do stupid ass things like grind a hole in the middle of the blade O1 does fine… sigh…

I used to have to strop after half a pass, until i kept the blade flat against my skin, but under my nose inhave to angle it a bit… so the tip still gets a bit blunted from sideways pressure… i have more of a tough than a hard beard… i recently saw a video where lateral pressure as the hairs...

I am interested… i want a hard razor for the difficult beards… at what tempering temps?

This article shows very poor results for 1084 with canola… i think one has to realise there are a lot of variation in canola oil, and also in canola oil as it ages https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/07/19/which-quenching-oil-is-best-for-knives/

but even Hoss said that if you didn’t have two ovens, and ramp time was more than a few minutes, just put it in at aus temp. Unless you did the preheat for grain pining. But that is easy you quench one or two blades from pre heat then put oven at aus temp and put blades in when at aus temp. Pre...

I dunno for razors and kitchen knives… i get it as hard as i can, because i have one of those beards that just seems to dull most razors fairly fast… no issues with honing as long as geometry is fine… as usual… diamonds are the great equaliser… heresy i know… which is exactly why i bought a...

There were a few knowledgeable people there, but you didnt get metallurgical or material science info there… but Spending waaaay too much time there long ago was useful for scale function and geometry…

Jaaa…. Apparently the mods who started the forum took it back, but that is just one side of the story

Work in progress… the kamisori is off to its new owner, the others part of a new batch for a local wetshaving shop..

You could get it just above 60 with a little experimenting… and quenching a little faster will help, using aebl or something expensive like the pm steels, that respond well to heat treat at lower temps will allow that easily using high range tempers for a redunction in toughness, and more wear...

Yes, they do, i look at the more expensive traditional brands first, as they are more often than not a traditional reference and made for the experienced chef, then see what the more modern brands or ranges do… typically the ones with stainless steels and modern handle construction, to see what...

Heel and tip shot, this is a 60/40 and i somewhat convexed it, in 15n20c it will go through most of the chicken and rib cartillage without damage… so plenty sturdy

even at low temperature tempering there is martensite becoming tempered martensite, but also RA converting to martensite and also tiny bits converting to carbides. especially in a slow-ish quench... that leaves more RA... i am going to guess the second blades were the softer ones, that increased...

practice and slow going... but kitchen knives that don't look ground like that are often compromised, you can use thicker stock, and the bevels not quite as acute, but almost without fail they must end up that thin at the very edge.