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who has or had the highest life expectancy in the world, until western food and stainless steels... the japanese... it has nothing to do with the steel in their kitchen knives, but rather their food and care in preparation... the carbon steel, didn't detract from that... and most of the pots we...

This is good with a few minor points, adjustments for individual taste 1. that choil shot from a commercial honesuke is quite a bit fatter at the edge than i usually see and make. For a custom i would go for sharper as you have skilled user. 2. i zero grind as per that diagram, and put a micro...

i regrind their knives and sell them a diamond loaded strop, and they have to use it at least once a week, when it doesn't work anymore they can bring it back to me. when it gets too expensive or ship it to me, they get told to buy a diamond hone of 1000grit and watch whatever sharpening...

i like 1/3" thick, fairly flat convex, i aim for about 1/10" or less thickness about 1/3" to 1/2" behind the edge, this was for the club knives. for my own i go thinner near the edge. final edge 12-15dps for softer steels, 10-12 for harder steels

we call this grain size, grain structure is usually when someone tries to describe patterns in the steel due to carbide banding, which is undesirable. if you are not sure about temperatures, quenching a few times from dull cherry red after cooling down in still air from bright red, almost...

you could clamp it and quench it, or quench, interrupt and clamp... so how hot did you get the hss in the forge, and why hss on a cleaver, or is it a thin cleaver?

I struggle beyond basic curves and saturation. I have gimp, but need to get into the jargon

good to hear!

i am often so fixated on his technicals, that i miss that... i mean, how exactly do you light something that evenly without losing detail...

is there space for mood and context in product photography, or should it be about the product only. please critique.

between our lovely postal service and inept customs... i haven't made the leap yet...

it has been a while... i made a few more in the last while, and some rescales...

different starches and amounts of starch... i also aim there for o1, sometimes a little harder... need 1.2519 and 1.2562 in my life though... am a steel nut... i am however always amazed at lowly 1085 and how nice an edge that can give you... first thing i do when knives start sticking is wipe...

i have a smooth patch on either thumb that is really heat sensitive for this purpose... kinda serendipitous how it came about and how it functions... it is also a lot cleaner than any other part of m y thumb...

symmetrical and slight convex on 2mm O1... 210mm santoku for a local chef. and an assymetrical grind for my own k-tip that is in progress...

my only concern with full flats are food release... not that i have seen many truly fullflats. you are always balancing food re lease and ease of cutting... i like to err on the side of food release for professional chefs and ease of cutting for enthusiasts... but i generally have...

i have done two blades together, but i take them out of the kiln individually and oil then plate quench. i have a long narrow kiln, so opening a door quickly doesnt affect the far end much. so i take the next blade out whilst standing on the plate with first...

it is important to choose your rabbitholes to fit your personality...

it is better to wait for the oven to be at temp, as everyone here has said, reasons are it is about time and temperature, so the slowest part of the oven heat up is usually the last bit, so you are actually already at austinitizing temps, before you start your clock, so you are including a...

look for the science of sharp blog, he has a straight razor sharpening recipe that is much simpler than you would believe'