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generallyspeaking, no. ifind 1000 grit diamond hone edge, formed carefully, and then a light strop, not a buff, with 2000-3000 grit compound good. the granite varies a lot. i prefer water.for a slicey very fine kitchen edge i go to 8000 grit.

just get austinitic stainless, easy to work, and you can forge it... if that is your thing

Kevin - Iam curious to know what it does to the steel in quenching too fast... we struggle to get good oils here, you dont actually know how fast it is... some oils we have, that say they are for water quenches, but 3mm 1085 doesnt harden... so it is a bit hit and miss... distortion is one, O1...

it is always a nice thought to recycle old tools that are past their sellby dates... there are pitfalls, like unknown steels, casehardening, carbide tipped saws... but it can be rewarding, i am not fond of the unknowns in the heat treat process, but i worry too much about those things

flexing has to do with thin... until it snaps, or bends permanently, then it has to do with hardness, toughness and alloying....

i cannot imagine the steel would be useful for a knife. it would not need to be hardened to be a framing square, in fact the distortions from the hardening process would make it worse for a framing square.

i do kitchen knives, and so i sharpen and regrind a lot of cheaper kitchen knives... but 400 grit belt and buff and done on the grinder, the edge i finalise on stones... not matching the crappy factory finish... It is part of making a customer's existing knives useful... it means they can use...

cpm154v at Rc63 is nice... it is really nice...

if your drillbit started chattering halfway through the bar of steel, and your drilling technique is good, you probably have course carbides in the centre... where i am from, about half my sources supplies chattery steel... so i am not fond of it... so i normalise at 1600 and grain refine and...

i have to say i absolutely love the edges you can get on 15n20... i may have soaked it a little long, but because the steel is so tough at high hardness, you can choose just about any angle from 7dps to 18dps, depending on the user and the task.... and it sharpens great no or very little burr...

becut seems to be an attempt to make a steel tougher than 440c and more wear resistant than 12c27 or aebl. so kinda in between. also i suspect it is one for stainless sawblades... the niobium and lower chromium should make finer carbides, maybe you are closer to the fine carbon chromium...

your fit and finish is very good, i have made more than a hundred, and i think it lags behind yours. however, for kitchen knives i would take the edge a bit thinner, than what it appears to be here. 0.01". This would be good for general, not too delicate use... before you get the edge bevel...

i remember it as two discussions, but might be mistaken

i think you misunderstood his directions... he actually said, if you have two ovens, put it in one oven at the lower temp and transfer to other oven at higher temp. If you have one oven, you can ramp between temperatures, leaving the blade in the oven, but if that takes longer than a few...

You can, but in industrial settings it is quenched by pumping nitrogen gas into the furnace, cold, so it is a bit faster than that. the slower it goes the more retained austenite you make, that requires more cold to alleviate... or lower austenitizing temps.... i would pop it in the deepfreeze...

because it is a sword... and waaaay coooler than any of the above

I think for self defense a modern one would be both less expensive and more effective, and less of a problem if taken as evidence, since it will not be cared for properly, it will probably be destroyed by rust... and shirasaya is actually meant for storage, so wouldn't be all that useful. you...

I make a very basic O1 straight razor, which i sell to a shop. if you want a few blanks, it might be worth it considering the likely cost of shipping. however, it seems you needed it some time ago, and i am a bit behind schedule...

My oven size is similar, but i gippo the system by letting my blade - especially huge thick competition choppers, or large thicker kitchen knives, touch the thermocouple, so i am monitoring the blade temp to a degree, it will not be just the blade, but it is sort of an average...

i find that my narrow long oven rebounds very fast when my blade doesn't quite reach the TC, but takes quite a few minutes if the knives touch the TC just about... so if i am doing shorter blades that are a little bit away from the TC i wait for a bit longer after rebound. if it touches, i start...