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I use a small wheel and use it to cut a line about 45deg from the curve apex then take a soft backing slack belt ran off the side of the wheels and let it fold into the curveand from there you just check a lot and grind a little

Here are my boys’ new outdoor knives... the 8yo wanted a hunter bushcrafter... the youngest wanted an outdoors machete... both drew their own knives and i used the dangerous tools depending on their ages... and refined the shapes on the grinder according to their input on holding the knives’...

And my new low finish effort kitchen knives... sometimes i just wanna make a knife and sell it for a good price to a foodlover /chef and not spend hours on polishing

Some recent work...

You can do a large diameter hollow, or ramp the hollow larger with quite a bit of effort. Hollow grinds are useful for peelers and the reverse sides of single bevel japanese blades, but only when the wheel is large. You can also do an s-grind which was popularised by Robin Dalman. But on the...

If you are at max hardness with a plate quench and a low temper like 350 or 400f then there is no point, unless you grind pre heat treat of course... If

I would take some cryo and even lower than 538f temper for most toughness with good hardness

Make tons of cardboard or supawood knives... that is the fastest way i know to fix that... Make tons of cardboard

P.s. high aus temp pieces of steel would tend to flame parks 50 which would degrade it quite fast, so just make sure you have a lot of it to quench deep...

Just any old medium oil should be fine, iso 32 parks might be too fast but if you use the low temp it may be fine medium oil got the hardnes really good without having to resort to high temper to get max hardness

My last comments are these: 1. If you dont have variable output pid and ssr keep elements a boit 6” from the blades. 2. Use the highest insulating capacity bricks or board you can find. 3. Dont skimp on the TC go thick and long enough to touch the blade... 4. Make sure you can dissasemble easily...

I think try put it in at temp - whichever works for you - and leave it in for 20min from when oven is back at temp i think the knife will be at temp for about 8 min then... but i think invest in some samples that you send for hardness testing. Look what temp and time gives you the best hardness...

That sounds good, i would soak a bit longer than that... and i would put in a hot oven, but i cant imagine it makes a difference in your case

Well verhoeven reported on a method to get Rc62 with aebl without cold treatments, it uses 1065 deg.c austenitizing temp for long enough and then oil quench to avoid RA and two 150C or 300F tempers, not convert it later, it depends a lot on how fast you quench... but i would at least freezer it...

i would be surprised at that performance if the edge was say more than 0.01" thick... about 0.1-0.2" behind the edge... it is definitely not brittle as it shows deformation before it broke, I would rather vote that there is some RA left over or that it got overheated in the grind, provided it is...

You almost WILL have a heat gradient front to back in the oven... make the oven at least twice as long as the longest blades... and i am hesitant to havbe 5 blades in the oven at a time, as the radiation will almost inevitably be irregular if some blades are shielded from the elements and others...

Two things... to get a good balance... and to taper a blade that warped on you in the quench.... ;-D

My tips for making the most of a smartphone is to understand 3 things 1. The sensor has too many pixels... so hardly any of them are any good this means two things noise and dont crop images much. So you must please the sensor... to please the sensor it means you need as little as possible...

Thanks... no it is espresso... this finish i call my espresso blades

Sigh....