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Just a note about the mechanics of bending a blade. You can make the very edge as hard as you want, as long as it's in the center (not a chisel grind). Take a sheepsfoot profile and harden the edge and bend it. Then take a cutoff wheel and cut down the edge, say 1/8" or less up the blade...

For knives at least, could it be that it was just handier to use a shallow container sitting right next to the forge/oven? That's part of the reason I used it. As for the temperature gradients from thicker to thinner sections during quenching, the gradients would be much greater/worse with...

I wouldn't recommend using a foam container to hold kerosene.

http://locusdesigngroup.com/effects_of_cryo_on_m2_tool_steels.pdf Here is an article on the conditioning and carbide formation.

To answer that, lets start at the beginning. For a plain carbon steel, any amount of carbon over 0.02% will form some carbide (cementite) in the annealed condition. In the slow cooled, annealed condition, something like 1050 will have pearlite surrounded by ferrite. Pearlite is a mixture of...

The articles I have are in print. If anyone wants them, I can pdf and email them. I'll post the references and maybe someone can find them again on line.

Kevin uses big words. What is colloquial nonsense?

Just to add on to the above, LN2 has different effects on steels that dry CO2. Both convert retained austenite. LN2 also conditions the martensite, promoting precipitation of fine and numerous carbides upon tempering.

I dont think so. For a given temperature, there is a limit to the amount of carbon the austenite can hold. Once that limit is reached, the carbides won't dissolve any more, as the carbon doesnt have anywhere to go. It depends on the type of carbide. Also, longer soak times at proper...

What does that all have to do with explaining the difference between carbides and grains? I see a new thread coming.

Yep, and even when one tries to read something like that, there is a level of understanding necessary before reading it. In any case, the above should help for anyone having trouble visualizing grains and carbides. A lot of my reason for posting this is there is a great deal of emphasis on...

Indeed. This is all a source of confusion. I know Kevin and many others have discussed it here and elsewhere, but it's good to bring it up to get the old timers to think about it and clear things up for the new members. I was mainly thinking of one or 2 times I've seen posts about sharpening...

I've noticed recently what seems to be a fair amount of confusion between carbides and grains. In some instances the terms get used interchangeably and, to me at least, this creates considerable confusion, as I use specific definitions for each, and swapping them around when talking about them...

Can you estimate the temperatures of the hot forging and normalizing? I'm assuming you were going by color, but you may have a thermocouple in the forge, in which case estimating isn't necessary. I have seen cold laps, fins, and blow holes in structural shapes and plates, but it is pretty...

There were reports of some 1095 with rather unforgiving carbide structure from the mill. Any chance to try a full normalizing to dissolve all the carbides and see if it's still there? If it's carbide, that should get rid of it.

I have had a 100 percent positive experience with the brass rod test. Every blade I've tested passes, from $10 kitchen to $100 folder. This is why I don't really find it to be a useful test.

Out of curiosity, what is that?

Got a 4k stone and was not happy with it. I took it back to the store and the owner traded for a new one. There was something wrong with it. I'm still not able to match what my Sharpmaker can do, but it's close. 8k next I suppose.

Three cycles is considered the point where you get diminishing returns. Also, keep in mind that W2 is already a water hardening steel, and the finer the grain, the lower the hardenability. If it gets too low, you might not be able to harden it at all. It is concievable for excessive grain...

This is getting to be an old thread, but how is a kiritsuke used? Zknives says it's a home cooks knife, so is it a general purpose knife that might not be suitable for all hours shift type work?