I also have a swag table and Milwaukee portaband with a foot switch. Never had a moments trouble with it and love the setup. Takes up very little space!
Thanks guys. Appreciate the thoughts here. I have never tried thermal cycling the blades before heat treat since I do not forge at this point. I'm going to give that a try and see if that helps. I'll probably start heat treating prior to grinding as well. One question, can you still develop a...
Hey gang! I recently competed 2 blades out of Aldo's 1084. They are 3/16" thick and about 8 inches long. I heated them to just past non-magnetic, held them there for a couple of minutes and quenched in Maxim Oil DT-48. I then tempered at 400 for 1 hour for 2 cylcles. After removing from the...
Unbelievable Bruce! That is absolutely stunning work. Knife of the year.....no scratch that...knife of the century as far as I'm concerned! Thanks for sharing!!
My vote would be for CPM-3V. Extremely tough stuff, fairly stainless and holds an edge very well. Survive knives (the company) makes a lot of their knives out of it. Have read a lot of very impressive stuff on them.
I would sure like to know what kind of accuracy you can get with that attachment. If you get time to do some experiments with the new toy I would love to know what you find!
Thanks for the replies guys! I'm curious though. How would you go about using a file and sandpaper and still keep the wheel round and balanced? Thanks!
My 10" serrated wheel on my KMG has developed a concave surface where it is not flat across the wheel anymore. Is it possible to have this fixed? Thanks gang!
I have done it both ways. I am kinda partial to etching my makers mark before attaching the handle especially if it is a hand sanded piece. If I do it after attaching the handle or guard and I have to sand it a bit to remove any cloudiness from the mark it is very hard to do. Just my 2 cents.
Since there have been nothing but compliments let me step up to the plate, if I may, and offer some critique......well......uhh.......change nothing....it's PERFECT! Lol! Beautiful flow and craftsmanship Bruce. You are a true artist!
I agree with the above statements. I have only built a few folders and still have a lot to learn. I would like to add however that it would be very nice to have some hardware available that is easily find tuned to length with a pivot lap like what bossdog sells. I have spent a lot of time...
I second tactically sharp's thoughts above about the Morse 811 band saw blades. I will never use anything else for my portaband. Those blades cut forever!
I enjoy neat trick I learned is to use wink rust remover to clean and remove any oxides on the surface of the titanium before etching. Wink is the company that makes it and it is the only rust removed that contains hydroflouric acid. One of the only acids that will react with titanium. This...
Hey Gang! Anybody know where I can buy 1/8" titanium tubing with an ID just big enough for a clearance hole for 2-56 screws? I would like to build some small folding knives and cut pieces of tubing to shorten to precise lengths using my knife dogs ez lap tool. I may have to have some made at a...