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Well I'll be danged. Never would have thought that. Thanks for the tip. And now I have Roger Miller stuck in my head. LOL

Man that's sweet Ed. I could hack up some kindling in style with that. LOL Especially love the contour of the handle. May I ask how you colored the Hickory? Fiebings maybe?

Ok, I see what you're saying now. Like I said, I took several defensive tactics classes during my LE tenure and know full well about the 21 ft. rule. I thought that you were saying that it had been proven that a trained person could defeat the attacker with a holstered weapon and I had to know...

Ed, its been several years but I've attended more than a few D/T classes. May I ask what you mean by the 21 ft. rule being "debunked"? Oh BTW, I can make just about any type of knife a person could dream up and my knife of choice for a knife fight is an 870 pump. LOL

You should try some thin A-11/10V at the same hardness. LOL I've found that when I grind thin steel its better to do it in 2"-2.5" sections and then blend them before you move to the next grit. Grinding in the short sections allows me to keep the steel flat against the platen easier. Just what...

There is one sure way to find out if your assumption is correct. Harden an unground piece of steel and leave 3-4 inches sticking out of the plates. Drill a hole or otherwise mark the end that will be between the plates so you don't get confused. Do everything else the exact same way and then...

I copied that data from Chucks site. After playing with it I harden at 1500 after a 6-8 min. soak and temper between 300 & 425 depending on use.

I'll answer your questions in the order asked and my answers are by no means set in stone. Anyone can feel free to agree or disagree with me. 1. Very little if any. 2. Yes but I wont mention name. There is a ceryain supplier that I wont buy from any longer for this very reason. 3. Probably not...

Stuart is correct in comparing nitro-v to 14c28n. For me, the difference in price isn't worth the extra $$. If I need more edge holding I go to CPM-S35VN or M390. If I need more toughness I use ELMAX. If I need corrosion resistance I use Z-FiNit/Cronidur 30. If I'm going to spend more $$ for a...

I'll send at least one knife, hopefully 2, within the next couple of weeks. Boss, you may wanna post an address where donation knives can be shipped to.

I wouldn't advise it. Drill presses aren't designed for side loads. Since the spindle is tapered and the chuck is just a friction fit, sooner or later it will come flying off. I would hate to have a drill chuck with a sharp cutter in it flying around that close to me.

I'm sure most of you are already aware of it but Matt is a good guy and a talented maker. He always seeks the truth in this sea of mis-information we call knifemaking and I'm sure that was his only reason for asking. Glad to see ya here Matt and I hope to see you here more often.

Were you able to mount it with the seal on the bottom?

I use the slow speed for finishing thin (less than .010") blades at high grit. For instance, a 2" wide chef knife made from 3/32" stock with a FFG gets hot FAST, especially at the edge because there is so little mass. The higher the grit the slower I run them. I grind bare handed in order to...

There are a few applications where I slow the belt down slow enough to read the writing on the back of the belt when it goes by. VS is worth EVERY penny it costs.

Love the materials and the radical design. However, I'm on the fence about the fuller. F&F are excellent except for the aforementioned booboo. Been there done that a few times. It also appears to be really comfy in the hand. Edited to add that I do see the ghouls coming through the fog.

Does your machine have a dynamic head? The reason I ask is that it is important (to me) to have a true 90 degree cut. A lot of older machines leave 7-8 degree angles that have to be ground off. Also, its none of my business but I think you'd get a lot more business if you'd allow people to drop...

Love the profile. F&F are well done as well.

Stuart is correct again. Its hard enough to understand this stuff but explaining it is completely different. Omitting one tiny detail can lead someone down the wrong path. Maybe that's why these threads always give me a headache. LOL I wish Kevin would finish that book he's been promising us...

Stuart is correct, it is VERY important to go directly from the quench to the freeze/cryo. I've been doing it this way for years and have never lost a blade. If you do a temper first you will stabilize the RA and once it has been stabilized nothing will convert it to Martensite, short of...