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A good rule of thumb for air drying green wood is 2 years + 1 year for each inch of thickness over 1 inch. I. E. 1" thick=2 years, 2"=3 years. The best way to minimize cracking/checking is to wax the ends. Personally wouldn't pend time on green wood unless it was free r dirt cheap. Lots of...

Haven't posted anything in a while so I thought I'd prove that I do still make a knives. LOL Blade is CPM-154 with a FFG and a 1000 grit finish. Handle is mortised and is Amber Stag. Guard is wrought iron. Spacers are 416 SS & bronze. It balances right in the center of the Ricasso & feels...

I find that wider is better with file guides so I would use the .5" width, maybe even .75". Notice that the 1/8" thickness is CHEAPER than the 1/16 in Teds link.

Use the data sheets as a guide, experiment with temps. & times, keep good records/notes, & test your blades. Your tests should be in line with the use of a particular style/type of knife. It is very important to only change one variable at a time so you'll know what made the difference. Have fun...

There is nothing wrong with ELMAX for kitchen knives, it just wouldn't be my first choice. ELMAX's premier quality is toughness which isn't needed in kitchen cutlery. M390/20CV has much better edge holding and is more than tough enough for kitchen duty.

I hope you know I love all your work but this one really speaks to me. Well done.

I wouldn't choose ELMAX for a kitchen knife but if I did I would shoot for max. hardness (63-64).

I use a red pen. I find that it pretty much disappears when dyed with darker colors.

You won't get a hamon on any high alloy steel. The hamon is an effect from shallow hardening. The main thing to look for is low alloy and low Manganese. If you want a hamon and want to use 5/32" stock, I suggest Aldo's 1095.

No big surprise here. Any time you forge weld two different materials together you're going to have carbon migration. Were these tests performed on as forged material?

I do believe that that is the best looking random Damascus I ever recall seeing.

Don't worry you'll get faster with practice.

That's about how I do it except that I measure back about the width of the tang and it only takes about 2 min. Per knife.

That Chicken Eye pic is EPIC. LOL

I don't use high carbon for bolsters and guards. I use 1018 which can be found almost anywhere. If I remember correctly, K & G stocks it.

A little talcum powder sprinkled on the blade will keep the foil from sticking. I buy the big bottles of cheap baby powder and they last for years. The talc is just crushed rock and wont burn.

It did help to give me a starting point. Thanks.

Thanks Mark, but I didn't see a tempering temp. for the spring. I read it twice but that doesn't mean I didn't miss it. LOL

I should know this but I don't. The data sheets that I have stop at or around 52-55 RC. I'm working on some springs in A2 & AEB-L and want to get them down to approx. 48 RC. Anyone know what I need to draw them at to get them down to that. I'll be hardening the A2 @ 1775 and the AEB-L @ 1980...

3/32"-1/8" A2 @ 60-61 HRC with a FFG and 0.010" behind the edge makes excellent knives for cutting hair, hide, & flesh. A2 is an overlooked steel mostly because of the shift to PM steels but it is one of my all time favorites. Of the reg. smelted tool steels it is my favorite by far. It also...