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I subscribed to a couple of them for many years but don't anymore because I find them to be approx. 10 pages of content and 90 pages of ads. I found that I would only come across an interesting article once every 3-4 months. Just not worth it any longer.

Here s how I do it; 1. Harden at 2100 with a 15 min. soak. 2. Pate quench. 3. Triple temper between 1000 & 1100 depending on the application. AQ hardness should be 64-65. Tempering, 1000 = 63-64. 1025 = 62-63. 1050 = 61-62. 1075 = 60-61. 1100 = 59-60. Please remember that results...

Love the show and I can't think of anyone better to represent the community there.

The procedure you described will work fine. There is no need to remove the foil or blast with air. As an air hardening steel it will do just that (harden in still air). The plates just speed the process and help control warpage.

Looks like you need to sharpen that thing. :biggrin: Just funning ya Justin. Cutting water bottles is a blast. I save used ones and refill em with tap water cause I'm a tightwad. :7: Oy yeah, if you haven't tried it, cutting them with a backhand stroke is fun too.

That is the same process I use. I grind the blade a tad thinner than I think it needs to be and test it on something that's hard on edges (usually Axis antler). If it chips, I sharpen the chip/chips out, which moves the geo. back, making it stronger. That way the blade will "find" the thinnest...

Fun aint they? Have you tried cutting standing water bottles with it? If you haven't you need to because its a blast. BTW, how thin did you go before sharpening?

Another thing you may wanna consider is the type of paper you're using. When sanding handle material I always use the white paper/abrasives. The black (SC) paper will contaminate natural materials even when working on a single material. Also, like Ed said, scrub the heck out of it. I use plain...

I'm not sure about the density difference. I just know the most expensive one (extreme IIRC) resists sets/wrinkles MUCH better.

Buy the best foam you can get. Its worth the few extra bucks. I have the extreme from knifekits and its holding up fine. I started having issues with the regular grade after about a dozen knives.

Since June of 2007. I started putting handles on kit blades with hand tools, a drill press, & an HF 1X30.

I've never hardened A2 at 1700 but it should work. It wont be optimum and as quenched hardness will be lower. You'll have to play with the temper to see what works best. I suggest starting your temper at 300 and work up from there. Your blade should be a bit tougher than normal because of the...

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Thanks for saying what needed to be said John. Tai, this IS a Christian forum and I believe that all threads need to be kept in line with Christian beliefs so people who come here and read your ................I honestly don't know what to call it but I'm sure it confuses people who aren't saved...

Everyone is entitled to their opinion but here is what I believe about the Bible, OT & NT. If God had the ability & power to speak this world into existence then he has the power & ability to insure that what is in the Bible (his living word) is what he wants to be there. EVERY SINGLE WORD.

I would just use carbide bits. But if you need to anneal do this. Heat to 1650 & hold for 2 hours, cool to 1100 no faster than 25 degrees per hour, then turn the furnace off and let it cool to room temp..

When the steel cools from red to black the 1st time that is decalescence. Then the phase change in the steel makes it re-heat just enough to brighten slightly which is called recalescence.

Call me when you get a chance. I hate to type but love to talk. LOL

I've been wondering if one of those 2 sack concrete mixers would work for tumbling blades. Anyone have any experience with them?

Sure it will. Just etch deeply, fill the etch with nail polish, sand flat, blacken the blade, & remove the nail polish. Just don'the use the DC side of the etcher and give it a quick buff before applying the nail polish. Try it on a piece of scrap for practice.