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Personally, I would have a stencil made and etch the Logo on the blade.

I recently used Terotuff for the 1st time and I like it. I finish it to 220X. It tends to pick up dirt, grit, grime, etc. pretty bad but a quick scrub with an old tooth brush & soapy water cleans it right up. I tried oiling it but that just makes it pick up dirt quicker.

Congrats on the new shop. Now maybe we can start seeing a few new Presson knives. Personally I just have that white insulation and like it because of the extra light like the other guys said. Whatever you decide on, I think you oughta finish it out with a nice coat of pink paint. :s12137:

You're more than welcome Ken. Now that I think about it, I believe that a piece of 3" or 4" heavy wall PVC sewer pipe with a cap on the end would work great and you could cut it any length you could possible need. You could build a wooden box slightly bigger than the pipe and fill it with that...

Ken, before I got my LN dewar and was still using dry ice & alcohol I used one of those little 2 liter drink coolers with the lid removed. If you're worried about warpage you can suspend them from a wire.

Somehow I knew it was gonna turn out nice. I absolutely love the texture on the guard. I'd love to know more about your process for getting that texture.

You're more than welcome Dozier. I enjoyed the visit as well. Practice a while, write down any questions you may have, and come back for another session.

This is gonna be cool. I have one question though. I have often thought about doing my guard shoulders pre-H/T but have always been afraid of stress risers. I assume you've done this before and you've never had a problem. I know I'd never try it on oil/water hardening steels but have thought...

Don't forget about the tried and true Bader. I did a lot of research before I bought mine but I wound up calling Don Hanson because I knew that he owned several brands of grinders and when I asked him if he could only have one which would it be he instantly replied, "Bader, hands down". On that...

My favorite from you so far. I love the design of the mark but would love to see you shrink it a bit.

No matter what materials you choose or construction type you use the Ricasso and the front of the handle should be the same width from top to bottom. You need them to be the same to keep the "flow" going as your eye goes from the blade to the handle or vice versa. Just imagine the same knife...

Nice! Love the profile and materials. I bet its light too.

I'll keep you in my prayers. I hope they get you all fixed up. Just behave yourself while healing and you should be fine.

Thanks Mr. Richard. Its hard to see in the pic but it does have a swedge/false edge on the clip.

Once it is adjusted, my Bader runs rock solid in either direction. I just have to screw the tracking knob about 3-4 full revolutions to get it lined out.

Justin, you should be able to screw your tracking wheel about the same amount off center/peak but in the other direction and grind away. For example, if it tracks right in forward with the tracking wheel canted 5 degrees to the left you'll have to cant it about 5 degrees to the right for it to...

Thanks Brad, I appreciate that.

Its not that the belts are taking a set, its that the tracking wheel isn't centered so it has to be moved to the same degree of angle but in the opposite direction (right or left) when you run it in reverse. The only way it would be able to track in both directions would be for the tracking...

Thanks.

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