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I like to reference my position by lightly touching the belt while grinding with my finger. But let me tell you right now it's not a good idea to do that with a fresh 36 grit belt on. I'm just a bag of bones, but the bag is pretty thin in a couple of places.

Dip is reflection of the heater vent in the ceiling. Black spot is my cell phone. Spine is very shiny.:) Guess I need to edit the photo. I thought it looked like you holding your cell phone or camera, and your belly button was showing. Beautiful knife.

Thanks for the kind words.

Wise words my friend thank you

So I'm also an avid woodworker so I understand progressing through the different grits of sandpaper to get a mirror finish. But now that I'm working with metal I find I don't have the patience to run through an entire list of grits. So I start with 36 grit and my question is what is the next...

This is why I came here, The willingness to share excellent advice is overwhelming here. I never thought about micro fissures or other defects in the spring steel. It's extremely disappointing to get a blade all the way to final sanding stages only to find a crack. Now that I think about it one...

do you consider leaf spring steel to be inferior? it's considered 5160 I think for American manufacturers. Not bucking your advice, it's just what I have a lot of.

Here is one that worked out ok,,,,,but not sure how,,, lol thanks for the help

good job on video I enjoyed it. I do have some Jigs and guides that I use but just can't get my head wrapped around how to use them on curved or recurve blades. Maybe I'm a working above my skill level?

Give me three, or more if you like, things new knife Maker, like me, screw up all the time. - cutting ☝ your fingers - not changing to a fresh sanding belt soon enough -get nervous when making finishing grind, and screw it up,,,,.,,