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Welcome to the Pound! Some very nice Scagel styled knives! We have makers of all stripes around here. Relax, look around, open a favorite beverage and enjoy!.

First, Take a good look at it and fix in your mind's eye all the things you want to finish differently on every knife from here on.. Anyone that hasn't done this, Hasn't made very many knives.:3: Saw 'em off, Clean up the blade the way you want, Tape up the blade and start over on the handle...

Excellent work! I started with files as well. then I wanted to speed up the process. It is more relaxing to work with files though.

Danae, Welcome to KD's, That is excellent work! :35:

^^^ What they said.

Erin, I certainly hope NOT! I'm a happily married man, Thank you!:58:

I hold the option to wrong here gents:shush: The stuff from Grizzly is from Taiwan and the stuff from Harbor Fright, Not a typo, its is from the mainland. They start with the same castings for the most part and then the quality can go north or south from there. I own some of both! If I want...

What John Said! ^^^^^ A metal saw will cut wood slowly but a Wood won't cut metal. Woods fast and metal you want a SLOW machine with a USA made Bi-metal Lennox, Norse or Starrett blade. I have a Portaband with a Swag table. Norse Bi-metal. works fine for profiling steel.

Ausbrooks, Great job on the recon. JSUK, Its called a Fuller, It lightens the blade and gives it strength in flex. No blood grooves.

Sweet! Nice to see a BCK that isn't a Scandi grind for a change.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-61585.html I know I'm in bed with Satan here, :3:but These work more than fine for the tolerances needed in knife making. I have three sets, around the shop when I want to check something there is a set right there by me. If I was making super...

Stew, That's why I never took a shine to Corby's, If you are making your scales the same thickness every time you can set everything up just fine. I even make my steak knife sets with different size scales cause people have different sized hands. Lovelesss bolts are what I always use...

If you normally grind before HT, I would go 90-FFG on the Bevel leaving .040-.050 then do the finish work and final edge after HT.

Justin, I Personally would go 90-FFG on 1/4" stock, its about 2" in height, Correct?

Jerry & his knives are both national treasures!

Wire, A TEFC motor is ideal, BUT! I have a 2hp from the 1940's that a buddy gave me with oil ports on it that I've run on & off for the past 20 years along with a few other open motors and have yet to burn one out from steel shavings. If I have a compressor, I blow them out once in a...

Whoa! Clean & attractive looking fighter!

^^^ Daffy, I would raise up the bottom of the rear of your handle just a smig so there is less change of bashing/hitting your knuckles when working on a flat surface, To put it bluntly, Sharpened pry bars have been the rage like fins on the car rear fenders were in the 50's. Look at any of...

Exercise a little adult restraint, :3: Only Cry Once! Buy a 2 x 72 with adjustable or variable speed.

1/8" thickness of any cutlery steel will work just fine for these chores.