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got it, that is ferric acetate! yeah, I have some oak that I could just turn purple/black without adding anything. I like the adding of the tannins first, that is a really good idea. ferric nitrate turns oak purple/black due to tanins, too. But, I want to play with vinegaroon, now. love the...

I like it. The treatment on the maple looks really good. I use a lot of aqua fortis (ferric nitrate) for maple. Did you do that with Ferric acetate, or potassium permanganate, or something else? kc

that rocks! never used carbon fiber, but it looks good in this application (never said that about anything but metal and bone as a bolster before).

Robert, I have been looking at a number of your knives over the past couple of days. Really high quality workmanship, and nice creativity. For whatever my opinion is worth, anyway. kc

oh yeah... how in the world did he do that trick with the feather patterns? Any insights? It looks sort of like conforming a hot feather on each side of a cold bar and then welding it all together (cold bar with curves). But, there HAS to be an easier way I don't see. wonderful photos, as usual. kc

dude, that is really nice!

excellent work. Not over-the-top, so it is something that you use without worry. But well-crafted, for sure.

neat little knife

In Peterson's, "First History and Collector's Guide to American Knives," there were a lot of knives made from repurposed files. Today, many people look upon that as a second-tier sort of approach, since so much good steel can be had so cheaply. Known steel. After all, the filemakers won't give...

good for all three of you! I am working without electricity (except to a drill press) for the foreseeable future, and it makes me respect this style more. I really have to elevate my forging chops. It is a little different when I can't just walk over to the kmg and grind in those bevels. take...

Tai - love it. The shellac on the knots is a great touch. I have been finding new affinity for low manganese 1075. I have a new shop but can't afford to get it wired to run my larger equip, which means I am going to have to embrace working without power except for a drill press. Back to basics...

hello everyone, I just buy crystal-form ferric nitrate from a chemistry supplier. Add water to dissolve. works great. kc

Bruce, We have never met. So, I gotta tell you this here - your threads have given me a tremendous amount of pleasure, relaxation, technique, and inspiration. I think I will probably make a pistol some day, and it will be your work that pushed me over that cliff. Of course, right now, I am...

that is one of the coolest wips I have seen lately. Very much on top of his game. What a nice style. Not over-the-top, just complex enough with subtle handle curves.

excellent. the knife and the pic are both killer.

I stain (when I stain) with aqua fortis and heat. Then, I use Formby's Tung Oil finish. A lot of thin coats. Takes about a week or one or two coats per day with the finest steel wool rubbing you can get between the first several coats. These are to fill the grain of the wood. The last few...

I have been coming back to this style lately. It is classic.

I like it. clean lines. kc

thanks for showing your process. that was very cool to see. Modern (or fairly-modern) techniques to create a historically-inspired knife. It looks great, too! kc

yeah, to chime in with Ed and Doug, hamons don't do much structurally that makes a knife better. A sword, well, that is another story. Hamon means something like, "badge," in Japanese. It is a visual proof of good heat treatment, and makes a sword that will bend an not break. I LOVE hamons...