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good idea. thanks for sharing your technique. kc

Tai - like I said in a different thread, I always like to see your work. You keep it unique, and the fact that you tie together influences from different cultures than most of us is always nice. Refreshing. rock on...

careful with ethylene glycol, it is a serious toxin. Tai - good to see something from you. I always enjoy your work. You have the Mojo! kc

I just want to echo what George said. Look around the world, and through time. There are a lot of great designs, and you will probably be making something that looks a lot like something someone else made. If it is a deliberate copy, then state it (or if it is truly, "inspired by."). Otherwise...

well, that is a great start. the first knife, especially. I like the both, but the first one is the one that does it for me. You seem to have talent (something I don't have). With a lot of work, you will be very, very, good at this. Just keep posting, and listen to what these folks suggest. For...

Hello Everyone, I am dropping the price on this to $225 plus shipping!

James (not Jeff... if you remember my youtube screwup of your name...), the perspective of that in your friend's hand helps a lot. I was thinking full-sized sword (you know, 25" or so blade). That pic gives me the insight I was lacking to appreciate that blade. It looks like it would be just...

Wade - I know I said this somewhere before, but I love the pommel cap on that one, and the nice transition from handle to blade. good forging, too!

my advice, focus on carbon steel bar stock like 1075 or 1084 for the first 10 or so knives and really learn to heat treat it. Then, move up to w2, and learn to heat treat it. You will need a grinder that is good, a heat treat oven, and a good forge. Sell knives to make money to buy these (each...

Hello Everyone, This knife is an over-sized puukko. It has about 800 layers of W2 and low manganese 1075, and about 4 layers of 15N20 for some contrast. The steel is really amazing in this blade. It looks like what I normally use for swords, with a very fine, subtle pattern, with a couple of...

Travis - nice work, man! really good looking. Everything seems just right. kc

Matt - yes, I like to do interrupted quenching. I get some flames sometimes because the tang is above the oil and flashes the vapor. If I just dunk the whole thing, I don't get any flames either. thanks for asking though, problem solving is always welcomed.

oh yeah, that's what I am talking about... ok, but I was thinking about it. Well, I would have been thinking about it, if I could have imagined something that cool. Now that I have seen it, I will be talking about it. kc

I am still contemplating something like speedquench or enviroquench, or another of the fast ones. It would be good if we could get samples to test, or if 5 or 6 of us split a larger amount. I mean, 10 gallons of this stuff, if I understand, is enough to mix several times that volume of...

aha! that is the catch... monitoring the concentration. OK, that makes them a little less desirable. still, I may give it a whirl. depends on how much the equipment to monitor the concentration costs...

Hello Everyone, I am interested to see if anyone has the data or experience with the fast polymer quenchants and how they compare with the fast oils (like Parks/Heatbath 50). I am tired of the smoke and flame risk, and smell. If there is a polymer that is just as fast or faster, then I may try...

ohh man... don't forget to actually make some knives along the way! still, this is going to be great.

West Systems, G-flex, and Acraglass are all very good. I used Bondo once on a through-tang that I peened. I carefully countersink just a bare fraction with a hand countersink tool, and then peen just a few taps. Just enough to swell the pin a fraction and help pull scales in. Then, grind...

thank you for putting all of these up for us to see. It was a great thread, even if you didn't write much, the pictures were in my language! Nice to see your techniques, and you made a beautiful knife. thanks again, kc

it is a great steel for shock resistance and also holds a very good edge. Better than 5160 at both. But, it is a deep hardening steel. I tried a hamon on it too, and the whole blade hardened. First time I tried it. I made a nice messer from that, O1, and 15N20, hardened in canola. it is very...