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Wish my first ones looked as good! Congrats

Expansion rate make sense as the same thing occurs when gluing different woods together.

Originally Posted by theWeatherman Keven, I have a weird question. Is it possible to use fast quench oil like parks 50 for all steels, say O-1? Could doing an interrupted quench provide the correct timing for the quench to allow for O-1 to quench properly? I bet this thread could go on...

Those shark tooth clubs look so sweet, as long as you were not looking at one in the hand of your advisory I bet! Before becoming desensitized to many exotic woods I built one piece and two piece hybrid longbows as my second job. It was cool to order exotics and to see how incredibly dense some...

Looking forward to seeing them too!

I am in the .015 -.010 boat as well. I build hunters and skinners mostly and take them to .020 before HT unless its 3v, in which case I take it to .015 then .010 afterwards. Keep in mind I am using a digital oven with dual thermometers and I use pcb to coat all my blades is my current oven does...

Thanks Kevin. I would like some W1 or W2 but the thinnest I know of is from Aldo in 1/4. I don't want to draw it out thinner if I can find it closer to 5/32 in flat stock. I read somewhere Tracy carried it but I cant find it on his site if he still does. Having it surface ground seems like a...

I have been reading up on how to get a more active hamon when using 1095 and have seen several videos on youtube as well as in the forum. They say to coat the entire blade with a wash when quenching in water but several others mention using a brine over water to aid in reducing the vapor jacket...

Bruce I think that Dan Graves has made one recently and I know for certain he would love to hear from ya.

Too add a high and low temp salt pot to the shop and to Think of how great and merciful God is more than I think of Knives!

Looks good and I like the design! Is that koa wood?

Hey boss I have a build coming up that involves 1095 and clay coating to bring the hamon out and I have been told to lower the austenizing temp to 1450 with a 10 min soak then quench. Any suggestions on the heat treating process as it partains to bringing out a hamon?

Looks good and clean. If you have access to a sandblaster you can smooth the ridges with it, that said it has visual appeal my man! Looking forward to seeing more. Lets see the throwing blades in action!

Skor I to was at a point where I was happy to have finished a blade but as time went on I became more concerned with performance and began to focus more on geometry, nailing ht and fit and finish. I will break blades on occasion to see whats inside and how and when it broke. I test the edge on...

Not wanting to drift from the topic but I got to +1 what Bruce posted. What a great way for family to interact as well as friends new and old. looking forward to the builds

Yes that is a cool folder there! congrats!

I to temper in a digital controlled oven At 400 for 1084 with no chipping

I have been reading on them and going back and forth on them for 2 years now but now have made the decision to build a high and low temp set over the next year. Time to move the coal forge out of the outdoor shop! I have only had the oven for 6 months and after adding the Auber PID w/ramp...

You and I have the same oven Rick and I patterned my PID program after the one you posted on BF. All this last week i have been making little changes and hope to get some real time in next week as I have a dozen blades to ht. I will do the same and line the oven. I have a good bit of 1/4 -3/8...

What are you using to cut your ti out with and to dobthe texturing? How does having the two different bevel grind do when slicing and cutting? Does it want to naturally pull to one side or the other?