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The transition is crisper if your sanding bar it's not totally flat, but almost imperceptibly convex (think very very big radius). For the disk, just ask a machine shop to make an 8 inches flat steel disk hubbed for your motor....spray 3m feathering adesive and slab a sheet of sandpaper on it...

Ceramic glass is cheap and effective, nevertheless being glass it's brittle. If you introduce tension when glueing (if you clamp it flexing it upon non perfectly flat platen surface) it will be more prone to chip and shatter of course. Just replace it and be careful when adjusting the work rest...

Thank you Ed, i will take the subject in much higher consideration from now on... Eventually i'll build a more serious press than the small air-over-hydraulic i have, when the time will come i'll get only over rated fittings and be very cautios with the routing layout!!!!

First thing to check when the belt acts weird on the platen is proper tension. The platen should be really proud above the wheels and the belt should be in high tension. From the picture looks like the bottom wheel it's way out of square to the arm, is it just picture's distortion? Is the weels...

I ask just out of curiosity, wether any of you have actually had first person experience of hydraulic press line pinhole leaking? I have seen building construction hydraulic arm piston lines failing, leaking, and it was just a lot of oil dripping...no laser beams ;)

If you use kitty litter... 1) use clean, new litter...not used one as it smells 2) before lighting the forge pull out all the cats!! ;) On a serious note the kitty floor on a vertical forge is a valid solution for forge welding with flux

You did a very good, clean job!! I find it very nice the back bolsters, as they add visual balance...their small dimensions and placement really spot on! I'm not a fan of fileworks, but yours is very accurate

https://www.fine-tools.com/japwas.html I would support your will to sharpen by hand with water cooling! The link will help you understand the different stones (you will get yours anywhere in the USA). I'd give you my .2 cents on whetstones: 1) get a big, coarse diamond benchstone...use it...

I had to do conversion into metric :) Yes .020 seems safer, and i believe i ht in that range, sometimes more, yet i don't actually measure my edge thickness. Surely is a pita getting rid of the extra meat after the ht!!! And my wet grinding setup is very primitive and messy ;) Against ripples my...

eh eh...i switched to the heat gun once i went a bit overboard using a torch. I also have an infrared thermometer at hand (paint black the blade with a sharpie for better readings), but most of the times i just sizzle the blade with water to get a feel for the tempteratures at play...but since...

Stuart, it is true that you get the most in the range of 400 °F, but if you want to save your super hard edge, please consider the following procedure i use (3 brass pins in the leg vise) - oven: bring to your desired tempering temp. (<<400°F) - put it in the vise and use an heat gun to keep the...

did you left the stone into water for long time? If yes you need to grind away the "rotten" shell, letting surface the sound stone again...been there, done that :(

Not any other reason than doing it the traditional way (plus the no-way-back challenge thrill), but many makers have done screw construction slipjoints that are very nice!

Great advice. Personally i don't find the whole concoction is actually that useful! Measurements will change once the spring is under tension, so just getting in the "ballpark" with a precision instrument before ht is pointless to begin with....the point of the spring will rise and the flexing...

Not just a first step, you got also a beautiful leg vise!!!

the "forge it thick" part has been covered, the "grind it thin" one has already started! Very thick blades are just slow and heavy

it is way easier building a press than a psycho-jumping ton of steel ;) helve and tire should be well balanced around beefy axles to run smoothly and all of 3 need a solid foundations, not to mention the needed mass and welding works which should be state of the art. I would kill for a nice...

Great advice John! Also, avoid to press hard onto the wood, creating very stubborn clogs difficult for the air to blow away.

Before drawing blue be sure the spring has been through a full temper in your oven (next to the blade). This way the spring get a deep temper at the same blade hardness, then you draw the flex+1hole portion to blue with the torch. You will have less chance to gall the spring in the walk zone and...

Very strange...what oil do you use?