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The knobs around the pivots are a touch of class! The knives came out amazing! Thank you very much for showing, i hope to see your wip's again in the future :)

George is right about everything he said...good points!

Frank, maybe there was a misunderstanding... i was saying that if you get the ivory hot while grinding (for a disattention) you may not be able to tell the damage right now, but the hot worked area will develope surface cracks afterward. If you keep the ivory cool while shaping it will be...

Big bowie blade spine will be often draw temper with a torch anyway. There are different melt temperature solder alloys...not a concern.

You can use a file or a low grit piece of belt. Have a work rest...you don't want to hog too fast the material, better trying to stay true by staying light and steady. Take your time, just don't slow down the wheel and feel for any chattering.

Not bad at all, actually it's an interesting curvy piece, and i really dig the somewhat exotic shapes it displays

yes, it is more dangerous the air moisture than the actual liquid water when working ivory. That's one more reason to avoid getting it hot. Another thing...if it gets hot you will not be able to tell the damage at the moment, it will craze the hot portion weeks later.

Samuraistuart is right. Thank you for the 1:4 ratio hint :) Of course you'll need coolant and taking it slowly. The closer to zero, the less visible bevel on the edge...it's nicer

That's pure gold!! both the kukri and the light painting. A big thank you!!

wow, it's amazing. Excellent material choice, that rosewood stripes matching the handle profile it's the piece of cake ;)

Thank you guys, i'll start searching around if i could find that product in my town.

Beautiful blades, you do a very clean work over there!! :35: I have also a question on EDM: have the pivot holes been cut by edm too? If that is the case do they need to be reamed afterward?

Thank you Frank, by clothes spray do you mean the thing used when ironing?

Super knife!!! The original polished hamon is over the top!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can i ask your austenitizing temperature? Thank you :) Stefano

Do you glass user confirm the static discharge thing? I'm out to find a glass suitable for the task cause i would like to update my steel platen. Thanks Stefano

That steel is really nothing short of AMAZING!! I also like the handle contour, but i don't get that flipping tooth in the index finger area and the blade angle with the handle. With that blade shape i would have liked less downward canting, to take better advantage of the nice belly when...

It should be cheaper to build from scratch an HT forge with a venturi burner, needle valves and a TC pyrometer. The equipment in the picture as far as i can see is better suited for forging and forge welding... it seems to have more muscles than control.

I can confirm what Ed said....i wish i had known it before :15: glossy spots galore! But i didn't know the gel finishes differently...i'll make good use of this info for sure. Thanks

Thank you for the tutorial. I would like to start placing shields in my slipjoints...they definitely add visual interest to the piece. I think it would be better starting with simple designs without too many intricacies, more in line with my skill level now, but even a simple oval should be nice...

You could still develope the hamon, but if you grind it you will likely smear/erase a lot of it's delicate nuances. Another thing to consider it is that often the most activity is very close to the surface. In any case just leave a bit of an edge thickness to be safe but do most of the shaping...