Search results

I did it dressing a dremel grinding disk (similar to cut-off disk, but a little thicker) against the belt of the grinder. You want to go easy on the pressure, with good speed and coolant....the downside of this method is that you have to take care not to loose the sharp corner of the disk if you...

Yes, 800c is the number... any hypereutectoid will cause problem when overaustenitized, but tungsten steel may be very tricky to recover if the temperature is overshooted. I think about normalizing heats....if the tungsten carbides start to coalesce and grow, it will be difficult to reset. On...

It seems like the advent of the hype wear resistant steels got people a bit out of track ;) Simple carbon steels will hold a keen edge for any human use.... let the big carbide steels for industrial abrasive material cutting machines!!! :9: Very interested in o1/o7 comparative....do not overheat...

It is indeed a fine knife!!! Very well done and the details...nailed everything!!:35: Stefano

I respectful disagree, Lawrence...an easy to sharpen steel it is definitely not a steel which will go easily dull....a simple carbon steel has the strenght of the martensite matrix, and with A BIT of fine carbides will do the trick. Knives uneasy to sharpen are those filled with proeutectoid...

My guess is that the handle maybe wasn't hardened as the blade...to have an uniform etching the microstructure of the steel should be uniform to begin with. If the hardening was done, maybe you had removed the thin decarb layer finishing the blade, and insisted less on the handle. Of course i...

Another option is to dress a dremel stone to make it a truncated cone (or to get a conic diamond wheel), that way the straight part of the nick will plunge more square into the blade without enlarging too much the curved part of the nick

The result seems nice from the pics...Thanks for sharing! Slipjoints are addicting, right? :3:

I imagined it!! It was just too "organic" to be the fruit of whatever fixture....very, very nice outcome. i agree with you that to pursuit flow and proportions it is wise to rely on a well concieved drawing....of course a nice drawing come from talent and experience.....and by inspiration from...

I like the shape of the "s" guard...very pleasing progressive curvature....complete success!!! Do you have some sort of gig for bending?

I like a lot the sculpted handle, very elegant!! I'm a little worried about the bending of the shells...Sometimes with "s" guards i don't visually appreciate when the lower lug looks like starting at acute angle with the handle. It is likely that i'm getting used to like the knife as is too much...

It's coming along wonderfully!! It looks like (and i bet it is) you enjoy to put as many challenges upon your path you can think about...that is a precious lesson for us all!!!!

I think i can spot the 2 dimples of the hardness testing on the spacer/spring and the 2 (or 4?) on the lockbar, if it is so is easy to tell the lockbar is harder then the spring because has way shallower dimples....nice :)

Hi John, are the pin holes in the butt cap blind or passing through? If they are blind how did you locate them without a spacer?

Thanks John, i like very much following your project, also i appreciate your productivity, which provide tight posting over time :happy:

Hi John, will you show the method you use to locate and drill the guard/spacer pin holes into the handle scales? I'm interested in your technique, i would try this: fitting temporarily everything with shorter pins (not going all the way to the spacers) superglue the spacer to the handle, and...

i think it should be very tricky to convert it into a power hammer...that thing has no "springy give" to the blow. i would use it as a manual fly-press.

too much credit??? i don't think so....i'm not only talking about the cleanliness of your work, but IMHO your knives exibit a rare sense of proportions and flow

the angles provide clearance while disengaging the lock, but with tight, flush fit while locked. The lockbar locking tab has to lift in an arched path, so it has to be wedge shaped....if the notch has the same wedge shape you have maximized the contact area.

those shells are super high end, by the time you are finished i won't be surprise if you would find a little steel pearl inside...thats where the detent balls came from!!! ;)