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That guard is going to be super cool!!! the simmetry is perfect, also the pin holes are neatly arranged, even if the won't show in the finished piece. It is good to know you have the same quality inside as the quality you can see outside! John, regarding the hardened dowel pins, they sell them...

i have found very handy to use waterstones to reach to 8000 grit, then hand sand back to the desired satin finish and take care of the plunges. Mind i don't do hollow grinds. The stones are definitely faster and more funny to use than sandpaper; they only require to be dressed every now and...

Amazing wip....thnaks for showing, it is very interesting to learn from one of my favourite makers!!!!! John, i noticed from the pics, it seems the first slab of the spacer has "pinched" edges... is there a chance they are safely outside the finished dimensions? It could also be only some black...

Paul, i like very much your swayback! I'm in the building of mine (bone covers) and i am a little concerned about pinning: did you find any trouble pinning the handle back pin, where the pin hole is located on a sloped surface? I'm afraid i'm going to bend that pin!!! Do yo have any tip to...

yes stones seems the way to go...but i bet it would be better 2000-5000-8000. Anyway - iirc - Pavel Bolf had some youtube vids about yokote

+1 what Kurt said...the same works very well also with 14c28n, a very nice steel btw.

The idea is that for the martensite trasformation to happen it is required a continuous cooling from Ms to Mf. You can go down with the temperatures fast or slowly, but you are not supposed to invert the gradient otherwise you could stabilize the austenite. With high alloyed steel as AEB-L...

Thank you John, next time i will try without wash...i was using it both for disrupting the wapor blanket and for protecting a bit the edge area from decarburation, but i was definitely not getting a lot of hamon activity. Stefano

Congratulations for your starting!! :) I'm glad that John Doyle paved the path for your first steps, which definitely means road to the stars :)

I work only the weekends because my "shop" is at my grandma's countryside house and i live and work in town. That said, working at a single blade slipjoint 5-8 hours a day, 2 days a week, it usually takes me 3-4 weekends, but can be more if something went wrong during the process. It is a long...

I'm with you in this :) Consider i made my disk grinder from scratch and imagine the pita to get the disk round hacking it while spinning, using an angle grinder by hands. I started with a bandsaw and a plate of steel to have the first round to work with. Then the key was to barely touch it with...

Congratulations!! i like your slipjoint very much, it is very well designed and realized. :35: I'm also new at this and i'll quote your line: ...which makes final assembly, a stressful proposition... :) Damn, it does!!!! Stefano

What John said!!! and remember to degrease the blade before the application of the cement. John, i have a question, since we use the same stuff; do you pre-go with an overall thin wash or just with the pattern above the bare blade when you "paint" the Ruthland? Thanks Stefano

Freds, did you use the cutoff wheel for the lockbar or the semicircular cut in the liner?

It is coming out beautiful... pictures, humor and knife altogether!! :63:

Wow, i just discovered this thread... I admire your ability to explore different grounds and your inventive keep sparkling along with your artistic talent!! In this pages there is a lot to learn from. Thank to you for showing!!! Stefano

Thank you very much Bruce!!!...slipjoint scales they'll be :)

Hi Bruce, is there any pratical way to get nice home results dyeing bones (or stag)? It is something i would like to try (i'm a green-horn "slipjointer") and i don't know where to start, i'm a big fan of yours and i would definitely try anything you do :) Thanks Stefano

Thank you Erin! Craftmanship, design, pictures, explanations and sense of humor are top quality in your wip's!!

also i bet that 52100 will still benefit from a longer soak at 1475F than w2 given equal previous conditions.