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Brandant, i will finsh the knife and will keep in my pocket of shame...every time i will open it i will remember to be very very careful with the hammer ;) ;) Tragic stories and all, i still think that slipjoint making is fascinating....i won't give up!!!!

Gangbang? ;) I think the whole idea is fun-fantastic, i can't wait to see the book!!!!! Stefano

I agree with Stan, in my experience it is very difficult to catch the transition bolster/liner even if the ss it's little different...the same doesn't apply to the pin/bolster transition...GRRRR

thank you guys, i appreciate not to be left alone with my pinched blade ;) C Craft: i appreciated also your story, it's fun and i could see myself (and my lady) in it :) Ken: yes the method was the one you said, unfortunatly my ss pin is 3mm diam. and very stubborn, i even managed to almost pry...

I didn't understand the question. Do you refer to a small bevel running all the profile of the scales?

Brian, Calvin's jig is a mind opener!! Why do we need a mill when we can use 2 layers? :) The outer layer should be thick enough to ensure pins stability, way to go! Scribing a line on the tang with the caliper, using the dial's number, is a very nice way to cut time when zeroing the spring...

Wow, that story reminds my knifemaking scars...every one of them had followed the shy tought: - uhmm...what if it slips now? (sanding) - what if it grabs now? (if buffing) - could it be hot yet? it's not red....(normalizing) and so on.... ;) The knife i made is a 4 1/2 backpocket slipjoint...

:les: That's it! NO WALK & TALK FOR ME THIS TIME!!!! My fault...i hammered too much the pivot pin and i pinched the blade of my new slippie. I'm starting to understand why makers love so much that little bronze bushings. I'm trying with no avail to slacken the lil' sucker with the method of...

a little distal taper will allow some clearance even above the bevels, past the liners milled zone, if necessary due to the deep sunken blade. As an emergency measure (damage already done) i would try to sand the outer rims of the liners in the contact area or sand in some distal taper on the...

Nice knives, i like the long, sleek shape (especially the last, blue one) Have you considered to chamfer the handle edges and sink the screw heads? I think it would add to the sleekness factor.

from the video it seems you are keeping the blades too much time in the brine. Once surpassed the pearlite nose, keeping the blade into water for as much as i see in the video is only asking for trouble. The blade should be out of the quench at 400°F and slowly, evenly descend to room...

the differentially heat treated blades include an hardened edge which run up to the tip. If this "ribbon" of martensite is narrow then it is less likely to break at the tip. Consider that a knife shouldn't be used as a prybar, if the user want so then make a blade without distal taper and he...

Today and tomorrow i will have access to my shop and will do some new trial. the carbon spring is ready so i am more comfortable trying messing with the stainless one I will try to tune the forge and persuade her to run 1000-1100 °F. I hope it will work, because i am sure that the carbon...

Thanks Ken, the problem is indeed i can't ensure controlled 1000-1100°F for extend periods :( By the way, (because i'm unequipped AND stubborn) when you had tempered the ss spring which color came out of the oven? I mean, i don't require the same strict control/performance as for a blade...

The 14c28n is not cooperating :( The blade it's fine but i'm having hard time with the spring!!! let me explain: I do have temp control in the forge and can run it steady at the hot temperatures, so i can and i did harden carbon and stainless, but can not draw spring temper with it, because...

Eh eh, i'm a little shy ;) Seriously, how do i post pictures on the forum? Can anyone please teach me how to do?

If i don't remember wrong if the surface is hardened, so it is into the core at that thickness level. The hamon line develops almost perpendicular from one side to the other, it doesn't "fold" around the core significantly. The mass of the steel doesn't allow for the surface to cool too much...

It also happened to me once... it was almost like the acid had eaten deeply into the hamon line!!! Since then i only rub the acid (remember the dishsoap drops) on the degreased blade with a cotton swab for short time, then remove the oxides, degrease and repeat.

nice work! Yes, don try the action before the spring and blade are ht'd...and always oil the joint before trying the action otherwise you would gall the contact areas. Relieve the liners if you have a mill, or you can try to etch out the reliefs if you have an electric etcher. I also skipped...

Just pay attention! If the spring is stiff, tempering is not gonna make less stiff. Stiffness is only a function of the thickness. If you over temper the spring it won't return true, but take a new lazier set. You need to temper just enough to push the break point to usable working range, but...