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I agree with Darrin. After looking at the composition when it came out, I really didn't see the reasoning behind the steel. 14c28n/Nitro V is a mini step up from AEB-L.

If you note the composition of Sandvik's 14c28n cutlery steel, it is just about identical to Aldo's Nitro V. Almost a carbon copy (pun intended). It is an excellent cutlery grade steel. Slightly more corrosion resistant than AEB-L, and a tad more wear resistant. Haven't used any yet, but...

I didn't know that it was a common practice to do so. (I'm relatively new to the 2x72 grinder). I always release the tension, every time, due to some small amount of OCD. I figured it would prevent the belt from stretching, but honestly couldn't tell you if a belt really stretched or not if...

Ed, 1080+ was the very first steel I used. Back then I didn't have anything to compare it to, but that's changed after experimenting with most of the usual suspects available (low alloy carbon). 1080+ is the name Alpha Knife gave 80CrV2 because people initially thought it was a Chinese steel...

Well, I probably should have left out "Somewhat" and just said "Fast oil". Parks 50 from Maxim oil in Ft Worth TX. Or DT-48 (haven't used it but it's said to be like the P50). Even canola oil warmed to 130°F would be best termed a "somewhat fast oil", but is NOT a commercial quenchant and...

Ditto what Rick said. VERY nice of him to take the time to show us how to do some of this. My hand sanding techniques came right from watching his vids.

If 1095 and 15n20 were used in a 50/50 ratio, then the total carbon % would be 0.85%. An excellent carbon %. Even if there was more 15n20 than 1095, the overall carbon content would be very acceptable. This would require a somewhat fast oil to harden well. The 15n20 I have bought from Aldo...

Just wanted to revisit this thread after learning about how one particular knife maker is apparently making their blades. They are using A36/1018 steel for their knives. Yep. For real. However, they are carburizing the exterior layer (or maybe just the edge?), to allow for some edge holding...

I use it, Scott. Heck, if it's oil quenching I use it! ha ha! Great steel, VERY VERY tough even at 63HRC. Very clean steel, too, works like butter even hard. Sharpens to an excellent edge. Not hardly any wear resistance, obviously, but that's not what this steel is about. Hard and tough...that's...

Good catch, Ed. I couldn't even find that reference myself. HT_Super......2 things, just to support what Ed said earlier. 1. There is not enough carbon in that steel to harden it to any degree of what a knife should be. You would want at LEAST .4% carbon, preferably .7% - 1.5%. .18%...

Please provide us with the chemical composition of "ZF7B" steel. I cannot find it anywhere on the web, myself, much less a cross reference. We need to know chemical composition to be able to tell you anything.

I've gotten those stripes plenty of times while filing blades back in the day! Usually it occurred only towards the ricasso, and it has something to do with the blade vibrating slightly as the file is drawn across it, as it is being held down by clamps on the tang. I couldn't always get rid...

"Other alloys need a soak in order to set up the steel for the formation of ETA carbides during tempering". Exactly. Darrin knows this already, but for the sake of clarification.....just remember that the eta carbide precipitation does NOT occur with sub zero temps of dry ice (-100F). Only...

The reason you don't want to temper prior to the sub zero or cryo is exactly why you're doing the sub zero/cryo in the first place. To eliminate the retained austenite, and tempering stabilizes retained austenite. (Cryo with LN2 has other benefits besides RA reduction....topic for another thread).

Glad you found them!

If cobalt is still giving you problems, you might want to consider a carbide bit. A little expensive, but worth it when you need them. Also, many masonry bits have carbide tips on them, and will drill thru hardened steel as well. The advice given is to run at full speed with no coolant, and...

Hey there, Mike. Check out Texasknife.com. They have 3/32,1/8,5/32. I've used the 1/8", very pleased with it. Tried to post the link, but their website was slow. NICE knives, BTW!!! Beauties!

"The problem is I've been using peters." Why is this a problem? They do a good job. But I also understand the desire to do your own HT, as you can do your own tweaks. I wish I could help out on Elmax HT, but I send out all my stainless blades to Peter's. I would start with Uddelholm's data...

I'll open my mouth and remove all doubt. ha ha! 3 things in a good steel/HT.... Hardness, Toughness, and Wear Resistance. I think toughness is often overlooked in the kitchen knife steel and all out wear resistance given too much accolade. Again, I'm just spitballin' here, but the way I see...

Darrin, I respect your opinion greatly. This one has me baffled. Will you elaborate? Seems like a very good kitchen knife steel in my estimation. I'll know more later this year, as I have a miniature Santoku for the wife in the works (when I have the time between customer orders). Elmax HT...