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Hey there Mr Dozier! Agreed with John. RC numbers could be a little better, grain should look finer. I wonder, are we using the same coupons to test and re-test? Also, is the Parks 50 at optimal temp of just above room temp, no hotter than 100F? Also....are you agitating the coupon in the...

There should be ZERO grain "growth" with W2 at a temp of 1470F. That's what the vanadium is in there for. Probably not any significant grain growth until 1750F+.

Glad we are making progress!

W2 does need a soak, 20 minutes isn't all that long. The vanadium in W2 will pin grain boundaries, so as long as the temp is kept tight, and under 1500F, best 1460-1475, then you could probably soak W2 for hours without any discernible grain growth, or doing anything detrimental. The reason W2...

DING DING DING DING DING!!!!! Bells just went off!!!! So you are putting the coupon in the oven cold, and THEN ramping the heat up???? Oh my goodness, this is a major variable. Yeah....grain growth would be possible. This 1084 has a touch of Vanadium to help keep grain growth in...

Ideally, you should not be able to see any "dots" when checking for grain. Agreed.....those samples look to have sort of large grain. Not blown up, but not ideal. Like Doug mentioned, a broken file or drill bit will give you what you are after. It should look just like a smooth gray...

ED, feel better soon! Mr Murphy must have Santa Claus's magic sled and reindeer, because he was over at my house the day before yesterday too.

The only accurate answer to that question is the answer Aldo has. My guess.....1084 was not available much of anywhere not that long ago. To my understanding, Aldo brought that steel back into availability when he had a German steel foundry create it for him some few years back. Same with...

As far as checking my own kiln, I have an analog needle thermometer, as well as a K type thermocouple with digital readout. Using those 2 in conjunction with the digital readout on the kiln itself, I can verify 1475F is exactly 1475F. (In all honesty, my readout may say 1475, but it's closer to...

Hard to tell exactly what the problem is. But we try to help. It may be the coupons are too thick for canola to harden this alloy well. My money is on the quench here (canola) is too slow to harden .2" thick 1084, which has a pearlite nose of less than 1 second. Try a water quench with...

Jaxxas, I didn't read the entire thread, but it looks like your RC readings are getting better with the longer soak. Not sure if it has been mentioned here yet, but worth repeating if it was.... Aldo's steels are heavily spheroidized. His 52100 especially, but the 1084, and W2 seem to be...

I am with you Steve. What Ed and the others said is spot on. PLEASE, voice your opinion to those clowns. This country is in a bad place because all too often good men and women remain silent, when they should be shouting.

Metallurgy Fundamentals is awesome. I have a downloaded PDF of that book. On (my) page 140, there is the BEST iron-carbon equalibrium diagram ever.

Hey, anytime I can help I will. Just a disclaimer...I learn from reading Verhoeven and asking questions to metallurgists. I have a few years experience heat treating and knife making. Please don't take anything I say as solid, but verify verify verify. 1. yes, grinding post heat treat...

I'll try to help. 1. 52100 from Aldo comes heavily spheroidized (annealed). You likely will not achieve max hardness (67+) with Aldo's steel without a normalizing. Yes, normalizing is a must after forging, but for stock removal not always necessary. However, this particular 52100 from...

Daffy, 1/8" is going to be very very functional, not matter what steel it is. For the life of me, on this thread and the one on BF where 1/8" is "too thin"....I HIGHLY disagree. Strongly disagree. Take a look at how thick a machete is...and tell me 1/8" is too thin for heavy duty work. I...

That is weird, John! I hope you get your order in! I love USA Knifemaker and Alpha Knife. Excellent, professional people every time I talk to them.

Feb 19, 11:11 am CST, their site is up and running. Just in case, 507.720.6063

Yes, the elements are stapled into place. On the underside of the lid, there is a channel carved into the brick, and inside that channel the element is stapled into place. You wouldn't think it would be much of a problem, and in all practicality it is doable, but it is NO fun pulling out a hot...

I probably should have included in my previous post......the elements of my kiln are in the lid, not the walls. So it was an easy option for me to take. As a matter of fact, the side wall already had a "port", with a big ceramic plug. I guess that is so you could remove the plug, take a peek...