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My kiln is a top loading unit. However, after buying it cheap and local, I quickly realized it was not the best thing. I modified it so that it is now side loading. I cut a slot in the side of the body, right at the level of the floor inside the kiln, so that now I can simply slide a blade...

good Lord.

You don't normalize steels like S90V. You go straight to hardening.

I'm not sure exactly what steels constitute being a different batch of steel. Maybe only Brad, the heat treater there, knows that exact cut off. My guess was oil quench vs air quench. In other words, if you had a 1095 and O1 blades....they would all fall under oil quench...and there would...

I've read that, go spine first. Or tip first, if your tank is set that way. You know, I am a creature of habit, hard to break things. I need to try spine first sometime, just to say I did!

Stefano, that last statement about correcting during Ms, you again are most right. If you have a bow in the blade, then you can get it pretty darn straight that way, and fine tuning may be needed during tempering! I've been getting lucky lately.....blades coming out straight, and only the most...

Heat gun....NICE Stefano!

Me too! A few points... 1. Temps below 400F don't seem to do anything for me. Temp must be at least 400F. Which, if making hard kitchen slicers at higher Rockwell hardness levels, this method is a NO GO. 2. Blade must be bent in an "overcorrected" method. Bending it dead straight will not...

"I have said it before this a stand up bunch!!" I typed my reply sitting down.

No help here. Good luck with that search. I can't find black corby's regardless of head style. I tried USA Knife, AKS, Texas Knife, Jantz, Sheffield, Ebay, and Amazon. No black corbys anywhere.

I'll jump in. J Doyle is indeed an awesome guy. Been following him on BF for a while. Recently he hooked me up with some KILLER KOA at a great price. Thanks John!

There really isn't any "controversy" with canola oil as a quenchant for shallow hardening steels. Many of us can attest to the fact....it works. But your stock can't be much over 1/8", or it won't harden well. 1/8" and below, canola warmed up to 130°F works very well. The fast P50 oil does...

I can see how frustrating it could be to get square cuts on thick steel with a hacksaw. The lenox blades aren't bad at all....but the hacksaw should be a "high tension" hacksaw. Regular hacksaws are just .... meh. The high tension helps for a straighter cut to some degree. If you have to use...

Just for clarity sake, non magnetic is ~ 1414°f. High carbon steel should be at 1475°f-1500°f in order to harden properly. So non magnetic is not hot enough. If using your eye, you'll need to go a "shade or two past non magnetic", to hit 1500°f. Also, water is not a good quench medium. If...

I have ZERO idea of what Mr Dozier does, but there has been some tweaking of the heat treat of some other higher alloy steels. In particular, the use of lower range of hardening temp, employing a medium speed oil to quench an otherwise air/plate hardening steel (minimizes RA), NO SNAP...

VERY nice!

Just for clarification, in the knife heat treating lingo, true cryo is liquid nitrogen temps (-300°F+), while sub zero is the dry ice temps of (-100°F), and the Sandvik steels do not need cryo, just sub zero.

I wish to no end that Crucible would re-instate that Cru Forge V steel. Seems like every time I turn around there is a new exotic high alloy steel for knife makers, but when it comes to the lower alloy stuff, there isn't much new. Now I know there may be something to the fact that industry is...

You wanting to plant one and grow a new one? Not sure what you are asking. Do you mean re-grind instead of "re-garden"? If that is what you're asking, you can grind hard S35VN, but it won't be easy, and you'll have to keep it cool as to not ruin the hardness.

55 gallons??? Ha Ha Ha!!! When I read your reply, Bubba, I was laughing! Some sort of communication break down happened along the line! 5 gallons shipped across Texas ( about 18 months ago) was $120. And when I finally got the Parks 50, it totally changed the ball game with heat treating W2...