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(I just saw Doug posted at the same time!) Alloy steels like stainless do benefit from sub zero/cryo treatments because the alloying in them basically requires the sub zero in order to reach full Mf (theoretic). Like the Sandvik series, AEB-L being another good example of how cryo treating or...

Glad to be discussing this with you here, too!!!! :punk: I think you're probably right over the target with "uneven" heating. Overheating can be an issue. A lack of proper normalizing/stress relief...especially on the forged blades. But untempered martensite is extremely...

It is true. But predicting it is an effort in futility. I've had one blade crack in my life. A W2 brine quench. It survived the quench (it should), but it did not survive martensite formation. 400f-100f. In that temp range, for carbon steels anyway, martensite formation starts at around...

Nice! Great thoughts!!!

Uh-huh....my point exactly right here. A-V has probably read somewhere online (probably a few different places), where someone says to quench AT non-magnetic. Non-magnetic is right around 1414F. If you are using 1084 steel, you need to be quenching at 1500F. And if you are using a...

I realize I was just being a little nit picky. I have NO issues at all with the mods here, or the fact that there is "heat treating" being discussed in a "steel reference" thread. No big deal, but it is redundant. But in reality, we now have two "heat treating" sub forums. Mr Caffrey hit...

I started using AEB-L this past year (2014), and I LOVE the stuff. What got me hooked on it was this little Kershaw Leek that has 13c26 (Sandvik's version of AEB-L), and how easily that thing took a screaming sharp edge. I ordered some up and made a few kitchen knives. All I have to say...

Mods, I see quite a lot of questions concerning how to heat treat a blade on this sub-forum. Maybe I am being over critical and analytical here, but I think this sub-forum should be limited to the talk of blade steels, their compositions, what works best where and why, etc. There is a separate...

"I wouldn't put a blade into a tempering oven that hasn't cooled enough to handle with bare hands." -Amen! Ditto! I wonder how many blades are quenched AT non magnetic!? And how many blades go into the tempering oven while martensite is still being formed!?!?

Wallace, you're telling us that running water over a warm blade (tempering temps) put a bow in it? Would you mind explaining that to us? You're wife is off the hook, bud. If the knife was "slightly burning her hand", and she ran water over it, there just really is no way for it to bend. If...

If you heated to nonmagnetic and held it there for 10 minutes, I would expect it to get hard. Maybe not the full 67 or 68 hard, but hard. 52100 is heat treated in different ways by different people. Ed Fowler likes to go to just above critical and edge quench, and then do this three times...

I don't think I have as many gremlins as Mr Rosa does, but I do have one very persistent little demon hanging around somewhere. I don't know how many times I have finished a knife to a nice polish...check under the light for any errors...and then put it away, stuck to a magnetic bar out of the...

I LOVE Neat's Foot Oil for leather conditioning. apply liberally.

Elmax.

As always, love your knives. These are just simply amazing.

Kinda crazy if you ask me. 55 experts give their opinions....and there are how many recommendations? 16 I tried going onto the website, knifeplanet.net. Once there, I can't click on anything. No links work. Except the one at the top about being a writer.

I commented on the other forum as well, but just wanted to re-enforce it.....from what I can tell by the photo.....it does look good. It would be better if we had a close up shot, but I REALLY think you hit the nail on the head. If you look at it with the naked eye, and it looks velvety, like...

Steels like those.....you can redo the heat treat again and again and again and again. If you suspect you overheated it, might be a good idea to re-set it with a normalization. Hit 1550F or 1600F, and let it air cool. If you can then do that again at 1500F, and air cool. Then once again at...

Agreed 110% gentlemen. 800C / 1475F is THE temperature to use for 52100, O1, O7, CFV, 1095, W2 (with slight variation maybe 1460). Stay under 1500 for sure! Scott is right. You could take an aluminum can and straighten it out, put an edge on it, and that dog will hunt in the kitchen...

My experience mirrors Mr Caffrey's. Stabilized...just polish. Non Stabilized.....Danish oil and then Tru Oil to bring out the luster.