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Just now looked at the Svord link. Am I dreaming? Didn't they use 1075 on most their products? Looks like it's 15n20 now, and good for them!

Ed, thanks for your thoughts, they are always much appreciated. My friend actually brought up the point about sharpening. He said the opposite of what I thought he would say. He told me "I would rather have a steel that is harder to sharpen but stays sharp longer. I don't want to have to...

Warren, maybe I missed something? I didn't take your comment as "aimed at me", my friend! I really appreciated it. Just threw in the other thoughts. You and I see eye to eye! Especially 15n20. What an under-rated steel!

That is a great point. Someone else also mentioned that whatever quench oil you have may influence the choice. Luckily quench oil is not an issue. As far as heat treat dialed in, I can't make any real "claims", because I don't have access to hardness testers or microscopes to really help in a...

I think what Scott was getting at was something like "Don't let the latest super steels and their carbides and all the talk get you thinking THAT is what you need, when simple AEB-L or 440C will do the job quite well." Nothing wrong with them (latest stainless steels), just that they may be...

I think that dimensional stability is exactly what they are trying to achieve over the period of a long time. As quenched, especially with a high austenitizing temperature, RA is going to exist. If left alone, that RA will eventually convert to martensite.....over the period of a long time...

Frank that M390 makes me drool. For stainless, that would be a tough bird to beat. I do actually have some 1080+ as well. Such a tough choice to make, but I went ahead and cut one out of the 1.2519. The stuff is basically Blue steel, with slightly less carbon. From what I hear, it can...

I need your help! Friend of mine wants a knife, this may turn into a "run" of knives for his hunting business. Steel cost and availability is of concern, but right now I would like your opinion on which steel might come out ahead in edge retention (white tail deer, wild hogs). I have used...

Would love to hear feedback on AEB-L hunters. Especially edge retention on thin edges.

The way Darren explained it is kinda how I see it in my head. I understand what Cliff is saying, tho. The oil is 130F to start with. But place a blade in there at 1500F or whatever, and the oil is going to warm up. My thought tho was, that especially with commercially produced quenchants...

Very interesting. Thank you.

"If the blade is allowed to cool then the heat in the oil could be auto tempering it vs letting it cool more rapidly if you take it out of the hot oil." It it to my understanding that this is backwards. I'm not expert, so I had to ask around of this very issue of leaving a knife to cool in...

That is simply amazing work.

I don't understand at all what you are asking. What "same type of method" are you referring to? Do you want to outsource your heat treatment, or do you want to do it yourself?

Welcome! I'm on the opposite side of town...in the med center. We should get together sometime!

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W2 and W1 are indeed water quenching steels. Hence the "W". However, in knife sized cross sections (thin) water can cause too much stress in the steel once martensite starts to form (crack). And in all reality, water should no be used straight. It should be a brine solution. But since this...

Staying tuned in! Looks great already!

Made in Germany. As well as the 1084 and the W2. Probably a few more?

Just to clarify Scott, my friend, your statement on "I go from quench to 300F oven", and what Stezann was saying. You shouldn't go from quench into a 300F oven WITHOUT the steel reaching at least room temp. The Mf needs to be reached (and that is pretty close to room temp, maybe a 100F or so...