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Your designs are good. You are trying to hollow grind and that is fine, but a flat grind is a simpler place to start. You have good design instincts you will just have to develop the skills to bring them off. Keep it up, walk before you run. (Or in other words, learn to Flat grind...

Here it is, I do like this one. Pics in direct light show The silver/while in the hamon. Pics in shadow show the handle better.

It is starting to come together. I need to break the edges of the filework on the guard. It is a little rough on the hand.

I like it, an hour or two getting in to the details and it will be a very nice knife.

Hows this hamon? :) I had it all ready for heat treat this morning and the Clay popped off as I was heating it. :( Wrapped it in wire and redid the clay. Cost me the whole day waiting for it to dry. The wire worked like a charm, the clay stayed on good. As I started to etch the...

I think I understand what you are saying. I look at a knife I have made, and think "thats not too bad." Then I look at the bowie contest knives and realize I'm still turning out junk by comparison. I recently made a knife that wound up with, what to me was a glaring mistake. 4 different...

I'm not sure I understand. Do you mean to increase the drop of the point to match the angle of the handle drop?

normalizing 3 cycles before I coat the blade for the hamon.

Thank you sir. You have strengthened my resolve. ha

Thanks every one for the input. Rudy. I almost did file work on the brass spacer but then didn't. We think alike tho. Also, the spacers and guard are 1/4 inch 5160. I'm afraid a piece of 1/4 inch steel on the butt cap would make it too handle heavy, so I used the thinnest steel I had which...

LaGrange, It probably is leaning forward in the pic, it is all just rough fit and I loosely used a clamp to hold it togther for a quick pic.

I have a friend who was telling me about some of the knife making supplies he put in storage 15 years ago and never used. I asked him to dig them out and among the various and sundry items was a Cape Buffalo horn. He had cut up the bases to make scales, (started but never finished) and there...

When I first started I used red cedar, black walnut and paracord for handles. The wood was free and the paracord was cheap. About any hard wood can be used and even some of the softer wood could be used if stabilized.

I had a couple people ask me to make knives for them and gave me only the words, "hunting knife" to go by. Here is the first one. I made it according to the general size and shape of knife I like to use for General hunting use. A little bigger than an EDC but not too big. The initial...

Yes, as long as my grind is flat. It is very hard to get that last inch or so of blade flat because that is where I (we) tend to drift off on our angle. There just isn't enough of the blade in contact with the belt to hold it's self in place and so it has to be held in place by your hand pressure.

Possibly the troubles you are having with finer grits could be less about the platen and more about the grind. I'm speaking from experience here. I found that any inconsistency I had in the flat grind would be magnified and exposed by the finer grits. The deep teeth on a 36 grit belt reach...

I used texaco 70 for quench. Shouldn't be too fast.

I honestly don't know how you grind anything with that rough platen. Whatever you are using to try to help looks like it would make things worse. I would try glueing a piece of safety glass (the kind that shatters into safe peices if it breaks) onto that platen. Thats what Mine has on it.

This is who I used. http://erniesknives.com/knifemaker_stencil.html Ernie was very helpful and very quick to respond to emails etc to get it just right.

I have 5 smaller knives in the works and 2 of them I promised to have ready for Valentines day. So I got all 5 ready for heat treat. Did 3 normalization cycles. Quenched the first one, no problems. Quenched the second (the only one that was Hollow ground) And it warped all to heck. I threw...