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Steven, I liked the first one too. I also just got a makers mark designed, I should have it by next week. I almost put Maker in my design as well, but decided not to. I figured that was sorta implied with the mark lol. here is mine.

The place I get my leaf springs from has a pile of them that are broken. It happens. I would not use that one for a knife, that crack will develop into a break.

It's decarb from getting it too hot. I heat treated about 25 knives in my coal forge before I bought a propane one. What I do is get a pretty good size pile of coal burning and put the blade just on the edge of the heat where it would heat slowly. I would normalize 3 times, the first 2...

looks good. I wouldnt have figured a scandi grind would hold up that well. Good to know.

I should add, it is 5/32 1084, 14 inches long with a blade just under 9 inches. I should point out the mistake I caught too late, maybe someone can learn from it too. I had assembled the handle parts dozens of times while fitting everything, the fit from blade to guard was very good. I took...

Here is what daylight brings. How do you like the oak?

Thanks Bowman. :) Some progress, Should have the handle on later tonight. But here it is so far, Some times with a Hamon, you don't get what you are going for. But that doesn't mean I don't like it :)

With a file. I did start the angle on the grinder, but I always have to finish with a file to get it to look decent.

Thanks, I appreciate the input. Especially the opinion on the sub hilt. There are 2 main reasons I tried a sub hilt on this knife. First; With each knife I make, I try to include some facet of knife making that I have not done before. (which is getting harder the more knives I make :) ) For...

Well, I hope this one says "I'm a Fighter"! I looked at about 50 "fighters" and took what I liked and started one. here it is so far. Rough fitting of handle. Rough grind of Blade done. Will probably heat treat tomorrow. How am I doing so far? Does it say "Fighter"?

By thin I mean the width. You would have a better Idea than us since you can hold it in your hand.

First. I think you have room to move the cut back. Second I don't see any need to. It doesn't look uneven to me. Third, why not add a guard? On a blade that thin, it almost seems necessary.

They are looking good steve, you are getting it figured out. Now do something different like a hidden tang knife to learn other aspects. ;)

I'm in the same situation. I make kydex sheaths, but some knives just call out for leather. I need to get some basic tools and supplies but I don't even know where to start.

Well, I am getting closer to finishing the bigger one. I'm finding a minute here and there as I move all My stuff. (moving sucks) Here it is so far...I Chose a piece of Wenge for the handle (Thanks JDALE). My first time to use that wood and I really like it. Just a little more...

very nice knives. Now you gotta do something totally different to learn new stuff.

Thanks Josh. Here it is this morning. Maybe I need to get some flitz? Or leave it alone? I tried 2000 grit paper about midway and that almost wiped it off. So I need something gentler than 2000. This is how it looks polished with the steel wool. This blade followed my clay line very...

Looks very Nice. I've always liked the knifes made from farrier rasps.

Can I improve this Hamon by doing another etch with vinegar? It has been etched with diluted ferric chloride and polished with 000 steel wool 5 times. I like it a lot. But it doesn't have that ashy appearance I see in some Hamon lines. This is Aldo's 1084. Can I improve it or should I leave...

Came out very nice. Good job on the WIP too.