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Tom, if you are just about to get started in metal cutting with a bandsaw, it's an awesome time to read up on blade break-in. It's a PITA, because it takes a longggg time - dozens of blades at minimum - but it makes a huge difference in blade life. Laurence is spot on (as always) about the...

I bought Valtitan files many years ago. IIRC, something like RHC73. Pricey, but nice.

I'm not a collector, but I wouldn't think brass is any more outdated than the Bowie knife. Rob!

Norton R999B - only available in 24g or 36 so far. They must be available in the US somewhere. Frank's review is typical of what I'm hearing about them. No, they aren't magic and won't revolutionize anything, but I'm sure glad my Norton Rep found them for me. Thanks Blake. :-) Rob!

Why do you want water cooled??? The quench plates already cool the blade WAY faster than the air cool the steel is intended for. People don't use plates for a faster quench. It's for a better quench - flatter and cleaner. I suppose water cooled would allow you put the next batch of blades...

Don't discount the EvenHeat Blade racks. I've used inverted angle iron - slotted firebricks - ceramic stands with tungsten pins..... All had problems of decarb / scale, cracked bricks, hot pieces falling on the floor when you try to take a blade out.. Nothing matches the simple efficacy of...

That's cool - but you'll need to explain what it has to do with your knife making. Are they made to weather what destroyed everything else? Do they represent a new beginning from a failed past? It's still going to be tough when someone sees that knife they really like - to track it back to...

I think it's important that a logo helps someone identify you when they don't have a clue. I just googled 'arbour vitae' and even "arbour vitae knife" and found pages of nothing relevant. While I agree that the tree won't etch well, there are coarser renditions that should - like; For my...

This is not a recommended setup, but.......... ... and the correct answer is you should use the Evenheat clearance specs. The UL certificate depends on proper installation. Rob!

Just a though. Have you tried just cutting a length of bar stock and profiling it entirely with an old ceramic belt. Way faster and easier than a bandsaw.

Sorry, we're off topic, but great info. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Actually, I think Alpha and others suggest a HT closer to 5160 - around 1545 - 1615 IIRC. I did a test coupon last night at 1550F - 15 minutes in the kiln at temp. (dipped in turco to prevent decarb). 1/4" section came out of P50 quench at 59-61 and the 1/8" section was over RHC 65. (As an...

Bump! We sell a lot of 1084 and I'd be interested in some performance experience in the real world too. Oops - crossover post with samuraisaint. Thanks!

I'm not sure of this, but I suspect .002, 309 or 321 is the same stuff (respectively) no matter the brand, but some sell 321 as good for 1800 and others as 2000 USAKM - 321 - 2000F - 309 - 2240F ENCO - 321 - 1800F - 309 - 2100F Jantz - 321 - 1900F - 309 - 2200F Having said all that, I think...

I was trying to get 1095 HTed in Canola. I got full hardness - by Rockwell tester - up to 1/8" and mostly with 5/32. 3/16" or more was generally failure or unintended hamon.

Dissenting Opinion. I believe the ATP 641 is rated higher than you will ever require. I have used it to 2150. Having said that, it is possible to get cleaner results with foil. I know you hate making the envelopes. I don't think you'll like applying the ATP641 much better. It tends to bead...

It disconnects power to the coils when the door is open - and immediately reconnects and resumes the program when you close it. Steel blades - foil envelopes - metal tongs or pliers - gloves with burn holes - and 220V exposed coils.... maybe just stand barefoot on a wet salty floor for good...

FWIW, I won't sell one without the safety switch. Heck, I think it's only about $45 extra - and it covers you at a moment when you already have way too much else on your mind. By the time you bought the switch, actuator, mounting brackets and armoured cable, you wouldn't be saving much. Just...

The answer to your problem is Vick's Vaporub. A little smeared under your noses, and the epoxy won't smell anymore. :3: A little trick I learned on particularly unpleasant necropsies. Rob!

Necropost from 2009.