Search results

  1. K

    oil? stain? light wood help needed

    I believe oak takes well to "fuming" and given the source and destination that traditional treatment might be appropriate.
  2. K

    D2

    The equalizing referred to in many spec sheets is generally there in reference to industrial parts and processes. I believe it is largely to insure the part goes through phase changes, more or less as a unit, often somewhere around 1400F. This can be important if, for instance, the part is...
  3. K

    How to prevent this? fit/finish question

    So, it's often been said that knifemaking is, in large measure, about fixing the things that don't work out. Step one is to get the pin out. Heat from a soldering pencil might be enough to accomplish that. Step two is to re-purpose the hole for either a larger head corby - or maybe even a...
  4. K

    Epoxy question

    One of the things I remember learning back in the olden days from Tracey's Glue Wars, is that whatever epoxy you are using, it needs to be mixed more than you think it does. IIRC, the advice was to mix twice as long as you figured or the instructions said. I've done so, just because so many...
  5. K

    What Happened?

    I completely accept your finding that this is just aesthetic - but with a handmade knife, I would suggest aesthetics are important. Would you pull this knife out to show off to your buddies? More importantly, do you want your maker's mark on it at times when you aren't around to explain the...
  6. K

    Shop Lighting ?

    I have no experience with the lights you are looking at but I recently switched from T12 fluorescents to T8. They are more efficient and I like that I get to choose from a variety of bulbs - cool - warm - full spectrum etc. The fluorescents are also polarized, so turning 90 degrees gives you a...
  7. K

    Edge thickness of stainless vs. carbon steels before heat treating.

    Once you get it right, there is little or no finish grinding to do after HT on stainless. Some makers finish the blade on the buffer alone. I would suggest not sharpening the blade before HT - for safety reasons if nothing else. It has also been my experience that oil quench blades will...
  8. K

    :-( First time since I started using Parks 50. Broke!

    Thanks Stezann. I generally don't get much say in pre-ht form, because theses are customer knives for the most part, I gotta say judging from the ones that have survived, I didn't see it coming with this one. I was fortunate enough to have a metallurgist I greatly respect look at the blade...
  9. K

    accepting credit cards

    We have a square reader, but only for shows where we can't get a phone connection. Their rate is way too high for everyday stuff. They've been pushing us to use them more, but if they are treating knifemakers this way, that relationship will end in a hurry. I'll be following this thread. It...
  10. K

    steel arriving bent...err maybe just not straight

    So, from a suppliers point of view, most of the steel we get is mill finish - anything but precision. Thickness varies as done bow and cup. Surface grinding is not the panacea many expect. Much like a wood planer, the material will be (more or less) uniformly thick and parallel, but can still...
  11. K

    Heat treating and Normalizing confusion

    So, when I think I'm normalizing I'm using something like 1650 - 1550 - 1450 - all with air cool, I'm actually covering normalizing with the 1650, and doing grain refinement with the 1550 and 1450 right? My problem was not so much with process, but with nomenclature? Rob!
  12. K

    Heat treating and Normalizing confusion

    Eureka! I get it. Size really doesn't matter. :Idea:
  13. K

    tempering color

    While I've seen enough variation to agree with Warren, I'd still be curious as to "why". Franklin asks about hardness. What about alloy? Perhaps oxygen exclusion by contaminants such as oil or buff compound? Good question Franklin. I'll be watching for answers too. Rob!
  14. K

    Heat treating and Normalizing confusion

    I know I'm going to regret asking :34:but could you elaborate on that a bit please? :les:
  15. K

    Help Identifying "Elephant Wood"

    Thanks Mark, for jumping in. Rosewood is a pretty broad word isn't it? Cocobolo? Indian Rosewood? Brazillian? Bolivian? African Blackwood? That little slice was cut off the bigger block which is about 6 x 6. It wasn't really enough to generate much smell. The first big slice should tell...
  16. K

    Help Identifying "Elephant Wood"

    Took a small slice off a protrusion. Again this is in bright sunlight. Colour is still actually more like dark chocolate. This little sample is only about 2.5" wide. Deep chattoyance! Could this be ironwood? Sinks like a rock in water
  17. K

    Help Identifying "Elephant Wood"

    I have seen cocobolo this dark after long exposure to UV light - and I guess it will be telling to cut into it. I have never seen this kind of figure in cocobolo though - and I have seen a lot of it. It is very heavy. As for rosewood, there are so many kinds, that................. The...
  18. K

    Help Identifying "Elephant Wood"

    Good catch - a little work with a magnifying glass and I'm thinking more likely "Mexico". I'll adjust the original post. Thanks (.... although a Mexican elephant doesn't get any easier. ) :-)
  19. K

    Help Identifying "Elephant Wood"

    Hoping the dogs can help me identify a piece of wood I scored last week. A very old label appears to read "Elephant Tree Hardwood from Mexico - Only serious offer". The only reference I can find to Elephant Tree is a North American tree that doesn't resemble this at all. This picture just...
  20. K

    Looking for liner material

    Can't say enough good about Aldo. He strives for the best product and almost always gets it. Reasonable prices and the most honest man you'll ever meet. If what you got was not what you expected, it was beyond his control. No, he is not my mother. :rolleyes: ... but he is my favorite steel...
Back
Top