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Doug It does OK as far as edge holding, just not great. Nowhere near what a lot of other steels can do, but better than most of the commercially available kitchen knives I've used. For example, we also have a couple of smaller kitchen/steak knives that I made, one from 440c and one from...

I'm currently trying out a new design for an edc that I used bandsaw blade steel for the blade. I re-did the heat treat as well. I quenched the entire blade in McMaster-Carr's fast oil and also tempered at 375. I've used this steel a lot for some smaller knives and kitchen knives. It works...

You could probably grind off the side that was towards the lungs on two similar sized sections and get a pair of decent scales. In fact, I know where there is an old cow skeleton that I might scavenge a few ribs from to try that myself!

From quite a bit of practical experience, 440c is more corrosion resistant than ats-34/154cm by a small margin. I can't tell much difference in edge holding, to be honest. I haven't tested either of the steels with standardized procedures, but I have kitchen knives that I made of both that are...

Wow! I just stumbled on this thread, and I hate to see it. I don't make but 2 or 3 knives a month, so I don't use anywhere near the belts that most of y'all use. I just got a few Blaze belts the last time that I ordered belts and haven't gotten around to using them much yet. I ran one for...

Larger files cut more aggresively, so for hogging off material, get the biggest one you can find. Large half round files are very aggressive. Mill bastards are less so. I'd get the biggest half round file I could find, then a medium sized mill @@@@@@@, then a small mill @@@@@@@, and then a...

They've been in business a pretty long time. I still have some bone I bought from them at either the Blade Show or the Guild Show in I think 2003. I used some bushbuck bone from them right after I got it on a knife for my brother-n-law, and it's holding up just fine.

I have a family member that is an avid fisherman. His wife asked me to recomend a filet knife for one of his Christmas gifts. I use a custom that I made for myself and don't really have any insight on production models, so I need as much input as I can get from you guys. The price max is...

That's a gorgeous chef's knife! The belly is a little more curved than I'm used to seeing, and I think that would make it better for chopping vegetables with a rocking motion. Well done!

I cut a live oak crotch the other day just to see if it shows the same kind of figure as other crotchwood I'm familiar with. It was a small crotch, about 5 or 6 inches across the butt and 3 inches or so on each limb. It did show some pretty nice figure, but was full of holes from wood wasp...

I flat grind first, then convex, either just the edge or the entire bevel, depending on the intended use of the knife. I'm a wierdo I guess, but I grind one side edge up and the other side edge down, but always left to right, and I've never cut a belt either.

1. Whitetail crowns and domestic hardwoods-the more figure the better and stabilized 2. Ivory (pre-ban elephant or hippo, not ancient stuff)- it just feels different in the hand and I can't explain it, warmer somehow, and it stays fairly "grippy" when it's wet. It's too hard to find good...

Parchment paper is actually what I've got. I'll let everybody know how it works. I see a lot of folks from KY here. I lived in Boston, KY for a while and have family there and in Bardstown and La Grange.

Well, you could have a good welder build up the chipped/chunked out areas with a hard surfacing rod and work it back flush and smooth with the rest of the surface when your cleaning it up. That would be a lot of trouble for not much return, IMHO. A carpenter's belt sander will work really well...

I'm from Monticello, but I went to high school at Northwest Rankin, and still have friends in the area. I'll try a block with wax paper this weekend and post how it turns out.

I called McMaster-Carr and, after getting transferred around the country on their phone system, was told that it is designed to be used at room temperature. I use it on O-1 and have a friend that uses it on 52100. We both use it at room temperature and it works great on these two deeper...

I'm planning on trying that pretty soon, because I can't get the color I'm looking for commercialy. I had planned to use wax paper on the top and bottom of the stack, but I hadn't taken the heat from the epoxy curing into account. Has anyone tried it with wax paper? Where in Missippi are...

What is the steel? Is it just the blade, or are the scales already glued in place awaiting pins?

On my air hardening steels, I take the edge to finished thickness and hand sand to 220 grit before sending it out. When it comes back, I clean off the discoloration from heat treating with 220 grit and go from there. I don't do any grinding after heat treat on most of my air hardening steels...

I recently watched a full-time professional blacksmith forging a blade using what he described as the "Hoffi" method. It looked awkward to me, but did look like it would be easier on the elbow and shoulder. It was totally different than the way I swing a hammer, whether I'm forging or driving a...