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Thanks, Wade, for the reply. Will try 120 and see how it works. It's not as thick as I would have thought for a slow quench oil, so that'll probably work fine.

Keith, I'm originally from just up the road from you in the Jayess/Topeka area. My dad always called Osage Orange "ironwood". Any chance we could see a pic of the tree? Todd

I don't make many tacticals, but I'd probably go with with mild steel for the bolsters with the same finish as the blade. It's really up to you, though. Whatever looks best to you (or your customer, if it's to fill an order) is the best thing for you to use.

Anybody use McMaster-Carr's slow quench oil? I just got some and was wondering what temperature to warm it to for best results. I'll be using it for O-1 and 52100 now, maybe some L-6 in the future. Any other comments about this oil would be most welcome, as well. The price sure was right...

Having used both, and tested them for edge-holding in similar knives, ATS-34 seems to be about 10% jbetter in that department. 440C does have better corrosion resistance, but ATS-34 isn't lagging too far behind. 440C takes a better looking finish than ATS-34 and is easier to finish. I can't...

David, mine aren't exactly coarse, but nowhere near polished. I think the diamond stones I use are about 400 grit, and I finish with a few passes on a piece of leather loaded with green rouge. A surgeon does draw the scalpel across the flesh, but does not "saw" at all, so it is, in effect, a...

Well, I'm in the "toothy" camp. I'm pretty adept at sharpening anything to any finish I want, and have tried a highly polished edge on my edc and my kitchen knives, and they always leave me wanting. A polished edge will not cut a lot of things as well as a somewhat coarser one, and, unless...

I don't know anything about working with it, but it should be a little softer than Lignum Vitae. Zapote has a Janka hardness of 3570 while Lignum Vitae is 4500. Brazilian Ebony has a Janka hardness of 3690. Ceylon and Macassar Ebony are in the 3200 range. African Blackwood is 2940. Janka...

Diamonde for me. Way faster than anything else for me. Finish with a few strokes on leather loaded with green rouge. Todd

I was really surprised at how quickly my filters got covered up, too. I've gotten to where I run it anytime I'm in the shop, not just when I'm grinding or sanding. Works much better than I expected.

Thanks for the info, guys, and thanks for the offer, Josh. I'll send you a p.m. about it. Todd

Does anybody know where I can get some good stainless (ATS-34, 154CM, 440C or similar) in 1/16" thick X 1" or even 3/4" width? I can get it from Admiral, but their shipping is ridiculous for a 6' bar, and I've had trouble getting them to cut it shorter to save on the shipping. Thanks, Todd

How big is the piece? I'd make something as big as the stock will allow! :) Seriously, if it's very thick, I'd make as big of a chopper as I could. That's just me, though.

Thanks guys! Will try the 1100 route!

That's a beautiful package, Josh!

Thanks guys! That info is a little contradictive, so anyone else? Seems odd that there is a 9 point drop in a 100 degree temp increase, but I found that info as well.

Can anyone help me with the tempering temp. for a folder backspring in 440C? A friend of mine is looking for this info., and I just can't find it. Thanks all, Todd

Josh is right that you don't have to have stabilized wood to make a great wood handle. In fact, the bocote I use isn't stabilized, and neither is the walnut. It's more important on some woods than others, but not an absolute necessity, if you choose the right wood.

That is simply beautiful.

Norton makes a honing oil for their stones, but it's kind of pricey. I used to use kerosene on my fine India stones, also from the recommendation of Ed Fowler, before I switched to diamond stones.