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Mark, In the few that I've done I just use scrap pieces of 8-9 oz. that are left over from my sheath making (I try not to throw anything away). I pre-shrink them a bit as a pre-emptive measure. When I glue up the handle I put epoxy between each "washer" and after everything is dry and...

Thanks, but it's not really my idea. Some frugal knifemaker somewhere decided that mosaic pins were too expensive to show only the ends and keep an inch of it hidden away inside the handle. His solution was just what I described. Except he used regular pins to hold the handle, then inlayed...

Well, it sounds as if you've reached the point of no return if you've ground the scales way down. I will throw this out, if it ever happens again. The pin is serving two purposes--structural, and decorative. The structural part was probably fine, it was the decorative part that was the...

Cool! I almost bought an ironwood dolphin at a yard sale last summer, but it had a big crack down the middle.

Nice lines on that one Frank! Throw some stacked leather in there next time and you'll start to get that Scagel look.

That's a great start, Franklin. I'm with the other guys--I like the blade shape too.

I'm with you, Fred. I think some have a tendency to overthink their designs sometimes.

I have ideas too, but it needs to stop raining before I can actually try any of them out. . .

I want the knife to be functional, comfortable to use, and attractive to look at. The more knives I make, the more I have been steering away from "self guard" designs. Mainly because the more I use them--for skinning and butchering deer, or bushcraft type wood working--the more I find that the...

Use thick stock, grab a round or half round file, then go to town.

Keep it a secret. Life happens and some people invariably drop out over time, so it simplifies things if you pick names right before the knives need to be sent out.

There are several functional/utilitarian/performance reasons I can think of to use a hidden tang. 1) from a forging perspective (especially historically when good steel was a scarce item), you use less metal. 2) Depending on the handle material and construction, the tang is completely...

While there have been a lot of primitive looking blades that have been made through NT methods, I don't think that it's a requirement. My take on neotribalism is that it's not about what the knife looks like in the end--heck, it's not even about the product. It's about the process. Tai said...

That time frame works for me. I'm in.

Actually, I use them. I won't sell them, but as long as they take and hold an edge I have them in my car, my tackle box, tool box, garage, etc. They may not look the greatest cosmetically, but when I need a knife I don't have to go far to get one.

Laurence, KITH stands for Knife In The Hat. The ones that take place on the forums are a modern rendition of an old hammer-in practice where the 'smiths that got together would each bring something that they had made/forged. They'd place the item in the hat, then each would take a turn...

LOL! Depending on which way I make my knives, they're still crude. I'm feeling pretty good about my stock removal designs, but forging is a whole 'nother story. Here is a link to one of those early Loveless knives...

I'm not belittling full tang knives. I make full tang knives. I also make hidden tang and through tang knives. Like I said, to each their own. Each requires a little different skill set, but we shouldn't get carried away making sweeping comparisons when there a lot of variables to be...

It sounds like you horde scrap metal the way I horde wood. Hmm. . .I bet I can get a bunch of handles out of that chunk of firewood. . .

What kind of timeframe are you looking at to run the KITH? Any theme, or pretty much any neo-tribal style blade? I haven't been in a KITH in a long time, I might have to throw my hat in the ring.