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huh, I hadn't thought of the shark tooth/sharkskin comparison but it does sound cool. lol I wish I was better with my camera there is a kind of translucent quality to the handle and even the surface shows it. I'm really happy with this one

looks good. I definitely would like to see it when you finish it.

well I'm not sure how you can fix those problems but I would just sand the entire knife to an equal grit and chalk the rest up to a first try. if that's the biggest problems you have ran into for your first knife then you are doing good. what steel is the blade? stainless you can bring to...

specs: OAL: 8 3/4" Blade: 4 3/4" 1/8" 1084 with a wavy hamon (done by Michael O'Machearley) blade is 1 1/2" at its widest point logo doesn't really show in these but its the acid and sharpie etch Travis Fry has a WIP for logo says CWC (Cameron Wilcox Cutlery) any critiques on...

Looks great. The grain of the leather really makes tie in with the pistol. -Cameron

I have no experience with this so take my advice for what its worth, but since you could not laminate two together with a joint in the middle could you get three pieces and laminate them together so when you cut out the material for the stick tang its in one solid piece? not sure if this would...

Hope it heals soon and that it help whatever the surgery was for.

I'll take 725. thanks for doing this.

I'm in I am looking forward to this and hope I can get a good enough knife out.:biggrin:

I prefer a plain blade just because I never have been able to sharpen a serrated blade and a plain is easy to touch up. In most cases a plain can do the same job as a serrated but sometimes serrated blades come in handy. As too partially serrated or full, I like either a blade with a plain edge...

I'd be interested but like most I would need some time to do it.

I got a Rifled barrel for my Mossberg 500, now I can shoot some copper slugs for deer season next year (in CA no lead for most game) Definitely happy with what I got. -Cameron

you have my prayers. Hope things come out well

I would recommend The 1x30. I know several people have starter out with them. Tracy sells some nice 1x30 belts for grinding steel. some info on what belts to buy just in case you need it. http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94_42&products_id=1393 All of Tracy's...

yeah, I just went in the house for the day and figure I'll pick it up tomorrow, can't go any worse than it did today, or at least isn't likely to. so it can only go up :biggrin:

well, I finnaly have a weekend with no homework and nothing to do so now I can catch up on some knives, one of which has to be finished and shipped before Christmas so I drill the first blank for the new batch I'm doing and bend a brand new drill bit within about 15 holes then start grinding on...

I'm not positive but as far as I know stainless steel is not good for forging because to do it it needs highly controlled conditions.

It is a very kind thing you are doing here. I agree that I have been given more help and advice than I ever expected.

I'm using a craftsman 2X42 3 wheel 1.5 HP motor, I use it while standing.

I am on the boat with James Terrio, being a relatively new hunter all I have skinned and gutted is tree squirrel. My ideas on the designs have been shaped from hunters I know and the read of, thanks to this post I have learned a lot and have some new knives to design and try to make.