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Make something and show it off to as many people as you can hold captive. I made a knife shaped object in 1986, actually since I was a little kid but some guy offered me $65 for it....a fool and his money are soon parted. With todays' craft shows and social media, you shouldn't be at a loss for...

You're welcome. No , water has never done anything good for leather. I cut enough leather for 5-6 knives, 22-24 washers per and put them under vacuum in polyurethane for 3 days or until no more bubbles come out of the leather, let dry...that's it. I have had leather stabilized for stacked...

Thanks guys. The biggest tips are : Start with the firmest leather you can find, from the same hyde. I've never used pre-cut washers, they leave little option for shaping unless you like the broomstick look. No matter what the knife, I cut rectangles 1-1/2" high and 1-3/8" wide. Individually...

Thanks Jay. My picture taking abilities don't do that lumber justice. Rudy

Thanks for the kind words Aus. I've been a fan of your work since I joined KD. Rudy

52100 3-1/4" blade/ 7-1/2" total. Stainless hardware/ Brass spacers. Black stacked leather. My leatherwork. Rudy

Deep etch random pattern weld. 4" blade/ 9" total. Bronze hardware/ red liners. Ironwood. My leatherwork. Delivered Christmas eve day...just in time. Rudy

It appears to be your run of the mill W-1. http://sij.metalravne.com/steelselector/steels/OC120EX.html Lots of reference info on other steels here : http://www.steeldata.info/tempering/demo/list/din_index.html Rudy

Nice find, that's a keeper. Bart Draper from Utah....maybe. Welcome... Rudy

I bought one when they were $315 (1986 ?)....same problems. Don't lose hope, it took some tinkering but I got it to work. Don't screw with multiple fixes at the same time, just one and test it and move on. I may have done more but this all I remember : *About 6 wraps of electrical tape down the...

Ed's right, nice job. After blowing up the pics, it does look like those black lines along the edge are the valleys in your twist. It seems to me that they follow the diagonal lines of the blade. I'd be more concerned about a thin line crossing the diagonals. Like suggested, go round before...

I still have and use one of my BIIs from the mid 80's and still think it's a heck of a machine. After many years in the construction trade I learned early on to make my field tools do double duty within their limitations so I've always had that mind set. I do things with my grinders that I...

I'm with ya, 46 years in the building trade. Roofs are the FIRST thing I subbed out, lol. Time comes when you have to decide on how much money and time you want to waste instead of having it done right quickly and maybe cheaply. I still consider doing it all IF I can but I only have so much time...

I'm 100% on board with J Doyles take on this, but..... You'll have to let go of this idea of doing every thing yourself, some people are much more qualified than others at certain tasks. I've run into this myself and went to the proffessionals. Make your knives complete, bring them to your local...

You're welcome. I suggest you bookmark anything of interest, You can't absorb it all in one session. If you're really interested and you should be, you'll be referering to HT info constantly. Pick one or two steels and get proficient with them. Here is a little more of the story...but remember...

Try this link. http://knifedogs.com/forumdisplay.php?171-Knife-Steel-Reference Rudy

John, In this particular case, no because everything I used was scavenged and the C channel body only allowed for using the pulleys. IF I made another one I'd still be using scavenged parts so who knows what I'd wind up with. I didn't really follow a plan, it was made on the fly to meet an...

It works just fine. 40# spring is right, I tried a 30# and 35# but I like a tight belt. Just resting your hand with moderate pressure on the tracking arm lets you roll the belt right off, The handle that was originally on it was awkward to use. I created the grinder out of junk just laying...

OH BOY.... At the risk of paddling even further up the proverbial %*#* creek, I can't let this go since Coach posted such fine examples of the subject. If the question isn't asked, most of us assume everyone has a firm grasp of the details between the concept and the final objective....NOT TRUE...

"Hard" is relative to who's doing the whacking. Depending on the type or shape of voids, some tools are better than others. If its long and narrow, I'd use something like a lightly rounded chisel to 'drive' the material towards the gap. If its just a divot, use a slightly rounded (nail) punch...