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I wasn't pointing fingers Coach, it was just a general statement. I tend to type like I'm talking to someone who's in front of me in person. Did you try closing the gaps with a punch and re-sanding the guard ? Copper has plenty of give to it. Rudy

One potential problem I can see is using that thin floppy leather(?) as a transition between the antler and the other solid materials. It shouldn't be used as an excuse for a crappy fit. It won't happen tomorrow or the next day but the leather WILL shrink and dry out some time down the line. I...

If your last name won't "work", you can reconfigure it to work. I've met a couple makers over the years that had the same problem, long Polish or Russian names. Their mark didn't match who they actually were. You can make up any last name to suit your purposes. Its the unique name recognition...

Not sayin its the right thing to do, but if you're up against the wall... If the guard is tight and functional, a decorative sheild or plate in front of it could get you out of that jam. Let JB weld fill the voids, make sure your fit is 'perfect' on the sheild. I haven't done it personally...

When I recieved my PID, I hooked it up to a power supply and ran through every function many times and understood it before the installation. Once you get one function down, write down the sequence in terms you understand and move on to the next. Write it all down. I pretty much had to...

Ed hit the two high points already. On my particular PID, if something is still flashing rapidly, I know I didn't hit "enter". Even though I know better, after a few years I still do it some times. I also found that isolating one function and completing it several times helped to move on to...

Something to keep in mind is the fact that the company doesn't need an alloy that has hardenability...especially when they're going to be brazing diamond segments to it. A hardened blade could be deadly if it shattered (dayooby, dayooby)...sorry couldn't resist. Toughness and stability is...

'IF' I had to use it without knowing all the specs except the ones mentioned, I'd treat it as A-2 with a plate quench. Modern saw blade alloys are usually used because they're cheap and could be one of many mixes not neccesarily prone to hardening. Rudy

Yup, its the browser. I haven't been able to see Tracys' site since XP was terminated. When logging in, the page is all jumbled up and can't make heads or tails out of it. Good thing I'm a hoarder on materials. His isn't the only one, there's lots of sites with blank pages or a prompt that...

Although I have other size wheels, I pretty much settled on 10" for most everything I grind. That's a personal preference and works for me. There's no reason to not get a fine edge with proper blending...which will take practice and a mental plan depending on stock thickness and the look you...

Get a good idea of what you're dealing with and learn to trust your machine. It's also a good idea to have a secondary device like a hand held thermocouple for the times you're convinced there is a problem. Color is subjective from person to person , place and time of day, use it as a general...

IF you're going to try it. I was at Lowes today and was standing right in front of the round over bits. They have 1"x 1/8" radius and 1"x 1/4" radius. As far as available size, I have panel bits that are 2" or bigger. Take a look in the Grizzly catalog if you want an education. I've never tried...

Carbide round over bit for a router. It might work in a drill press. I've been using different size Uni-Bits (cone shaped) to chamfer holes for at least 20 years which give pretty much the same results but not an even arc. You could chamfer both sides and hit it with paper. Rudy

Ladies choice. Just because I have tons of nails around, lifelong carpenter, on smaller tongs I usually use 16 penny common nails or larger. You'll only have one side to peen. Shouldered bolts are ok too, stay away from the zinc coated ones. Pretty much anything goes. Just size your rivet to the...

NO I tried that a few years ago and wound up with some molten glass/plastic looking crap where my patches once were. The Rutland didn't handle the welding heat. I had to scrape that out bigger than the original holes and went back to the old standby Satanite for patching. Rudy

Here's a start. http://www.cuttingedge.com/knife/klc08801_cm_1_kentucky_rifle_knife/whence:%252Fknives%252Fcurrently_available%252Fpage%253A5 Rudy

These guys are a good a choice as any, look over the whole page for different options. I've never had such a small machine but ceramics like a fair amount of speed and pressure or else they're not doing their job. You might wanna split hairs on price and performance and stick to AO belts...

Fill a soup can with sand, then fill with water. Stand your blade in the can up to the ricasso and heat the tang with a torch evenly. Let it cool by itself in the can. Even if you boil the water which you won't, you'll be well below tempering temp. Rudy

It's just oxides from whatever you may have cleaned them with. I do a fair amount of HT for other local makers and just for fun I found that soap and water gave me mostly a grey finish, acetone gives nice pinks and electric blues much like yours and mineral spirits give amazing purples and dark...

Beautiful work Kyle. Rudy