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I use the gflex 655k. Is the thicker stuff that comes in the toothpaste tubes. Haven't had any problems yet. I also just grabbed some blade bond to try. We'll see how that works.

Looking real good! Now I know who to bug when I try my first :biggrin:

In consideration of Ed's post I was getting more splits when using hand setters vs an arbor press and had the grind rivets down some with the hand setter to compensate. Shouldn't have to do that with a press but I'm thinking that was probably the issue I had. Thanks for your attention to detail...

I had the same problem and i can't really tell you the solution. Problem went away with switching eylets to another vendor's. Weird thing is that I had no trouble with the majority of the eyelets from the first vendor until that last batch where at least one in every sheath I made split...

That's a sweet blade! You're work is always very inspiring Tai.

Thanks for the info John! Very informative and very helpful!

Thanks for your input Bob and Ebbtide. Good photoshop skills is something I don't have yet so I'm working it at the other end to take the best photos I can that will limit any ps time for a finished product. Which leads me to another question about lighting. But more specifically about the...

Color temperature balance is one of those things I'm still struggling with. A lot has to do with my lighting setup before shooting and my camera preferences but I still seem to have difficulty finding the right temp balance that maintains proper color saturation. I agree on the sharpness...

I totally agree with you on wanting the blade to look better in person. I didn't even think about removing blemishes. I've also bought things that look way better in the sales thread than in person. Thanks for your feedback Mr. Hoffman. I think that is a lot to consider right there.

I totally forgot about this thread. Ausbrooks pm ne your addy and I'll get some handle material or to you this weekend. Just let me know if you want scales or a block?

So recently I've been able to cheaply up my photo game. I'm curious as to what level of photo editing is acceptable and what level is unacceptable. I wouldn't want to sell a blade using heavily edited photos that makes buyers think they're getting something they aren't. However, I have to admit...

If everything is clean it's easy. Just make sure not to over spray. I was doing it myself but switched to someone local so I could spend more time grinding.

Yup. Cerakote. Thanks for tye compliment.

Urban Menace hawk gaining momentum as more orders are coming in. Babcock hawk with tapered tang. Designed by an FMA practitioner after the Filipino Igorot head hunting axe and carried by active operators in the field.

I finally got to watch the show and I'm a few episodes behind. It's interesting and entertaining.

We're not all full of insults. There are some really good people on this forum and a lot of green knife makers so you shouldn't expect every thread to be from a 20 year vet. I know your comment centered mostly on Ed but you took aim at everyone including the OP who was only asking for more...

Beautiful work. I love the design.

Welcome aboard!

I've seen someone laminate carbon fiber to titanium in the past. I'm not sure of the benefit aside from the safety glass effect where a blade break sticks to the laminate. Titanium doesn't make a great knife edge unless using a carbidizer imo. I'm guessing the draw here is the look and the...

You should be good with a Beaumont disc but I'd also recommend variable speed if you are planning on doing folder work or working with small parts. I was using the 9" disc attachment on the Coote which actually worked very well. I recently picked up a precision steel disc and have it mounted on...