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Ok i ended up making some changes to the design of the knife it will not be having a thru tang, or a buttcap. So on with the blade Here i glued the ferrule to the handle block, at this point i have already fitted the tang into the handle block. Now i layout my handle shape using...

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Nice! I like the shape would make a good hunting knife, with that hollow grind. Looks very good. I like your makers mark

Here i am using the mill to square up my block of handle material. I think i am going to use unstablized dark walnut, but i may use zebra wood, i have some nice zebra wood but i have put it on my last 3 knives so i wanted to go with something different. Time to buy some handle material...

I made a wooden mockup of my gaurd, ferrule, and handle, so i can work out any size issues. To me the handle shape is a very important part of a knife, so on alot of my knives i make a wooden mock up of the handle and hardware. The handle should be very comfortable in the hands and with a...

Got some more done on the small fighter last night, Now i need to use a needle file and clean up the round sholders on the gaurd to almost square because i slightly radius the corners of the tang. Then hammer gaurd down into a press fit. And all my center lines match up which thats perfect.

The reason roughing both surfaces help is it increases the surface area for the epoxy to adhere too. And i usually use lacquer thinner to clean all parts before glue up, i wipe off with lacquer thinner on a paper towel, then squirt lacquer on part and blow off with air hose. It evaperates verry...

Has anyone ever used high strength epoxy that is used for bonding sledge hammer heads to the handle, thats what i use, we make alot of hammers and the epoxy is verry high impact resistant. I would like to hear somones thoughts on this

Got the gaurd laid out to mill the slot. The way i mill my gaurd slot is with a 3/16 tapered end mill i think it is 3 or 5 deg. I mill from the front of the gaurd that faces the blade first, after i get the slot milled thru i mill to my layout lines checking with my calipers to get it the rite...

Gonna make the gaurd, ferrule, butt cap it is mild steel Laying out the gaurd. Laying the gaurd out on the height gage, gonna make it .250 Cutting gaurd down to .250 on the mill I get the gaurd within a few thousands and switch cutters to get a cleaner cut, i use the carbide fly...

Here is a few knives i have been working on still have to clean the blades up and buff lightly, then make the sheaths for them

Did some work on the tang, If you can see i added a small radius to the tang were the gaurd will seat. I used a small round needle file to do so. The reason for this is to prevent any stress risers, this is the weakest part on a hidden tang knife. So eliminating any sharp corners helps...

It is important for me to have the recoso flat from spine to edge so when my gaurd slot is milled there will not be a gap at the top or bottom. Its within 1 thousands of a inch so that is close enoph

Grinded bevels last night. I was debating to add a false edge on blade. Is it more traditonal to have a sharpend clip or false edge being a fighter? Almost all the ones i see have it. So thats got me stuck to false edge or to not false edge.

Very nicely done, I like the homon shape

For on you could put a small roll pin going fom your gaurd thru the ferrule and into the stag, that way you can use the pins to line it up corectly or you can put release on the inside of the ferrule and as you are molding the tang shape inside the stag place epoxy around the inside if the...

Ok the lawyer is a typo. I a release agent stops the epoxy from bonding to the tang, I have a wax base release called renlease. You can use something like petroleum jelly or maybe even Pam cooking spray anything to stop the bonding ad the epoxy to the tang. After the epoxy is set up you remove...

The way I would do is drill your hole it the stag 1 size smaller than pin size, put a release agent on blade and apoxy it into the stag and clamp let it cure, then drill blade 1 size smaller than pin size remove blade go ahead and heat treat your blade maybe even add some clay to pin hole...

I changed resolution but nothing changed as far as the image size