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Tracy, wouldn't having the blade inside the oven before you turn it on overheat the blade because the oven is overheating to reach the temp? So if you have a pre heat temp, set the temp let it hit that pre heat temp and then place the blade in the oven, then continue to the soak temp? Same...

So I have to ask because I have been looking for a while and it doesn't seem to come up a lot. I have been doing as much reading as I can about metallurgy and heat treating. I specifically look at O-1, 1095, and W-2 because that is what I want to use. Now.... I snagged a copy of the ASM Heat...

I hate to ask but since we are on the topic, what do you think of this mill from HF to do the bolsters and guards? http://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html

Art, what type of mill do you have for $800?

Ok, lets make sure that we separate the terms of normalizing and "Thermal Cycling". What I want to do is thermal cycling. If I understand correctly, then by reducing the the temps and cycling you allow for finer grains, equaling more grain boundaries, and the reason you reduce the temps is to...

I know..... Wish I had that kind of cash. It's either a grinder or a mill next. I'm rocking the 2 x 42 craftsman. What kind of mill you think is good for $800, Art?

Its pretty cool. I would have to figure out a cleaver way to do it without a mill. HELLGAP - register and it takes a little bit to have the admin take care of your permissions etc.

Doug, sorry I was all over the place and looking into 2 or 3 books trying to get good info to answer my own questions and I think I edited that post at least 5 times. I was specifically talking about normalizing the steel to refine the grain structure. In the ASM Heat Treater's Guide it says...

Kevin, If you don't mind I would like to hear about the explanation about the interrupted quench. Another thing that I was looking at but forgot to mention when I started the thread was the grain refinement. I have heard of doing SEVERAL declining thermal cycles to refine the grain...

No problem!!!! I just had to get enough info on my own so I could find what I needed. Thanks.

I would like to discuss the process and why it works, when you can get a hamon when not using any clay. So lets look at a knife out of W2 and trying to produce a hamon with no clay. From my research there are 3 things that help with the hamon in W2 with no clay. 1) Temp = 1435 to 1445...

The comments on the basket weave and having deeper tooling leads me towards the 24oz maul. I really should just go hit the middle (160z) since the leatherman says the 12oz is what he uses the most as well. Always a difficult when it comes to tools. I will end up getting 2 or 3 from what it...

Yeah, I emailed him in the past year and his wife responded telling me about him. I felt bad....

So ever since I started making sheaths I have had problems with getting the mexican basket weave stitch/lace correct. I finally got it to look presentable. Now.... I wish I would have taken appropriate pictures but this is what I have until I make another sheath so I can post those pictures...

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I noticed this as well.... However! From some of the guys that I have talked to, white rouge and Pink (no scratch) works well on stabilized woods, because it is impreganated by the polymers which act similar to a "plastic". Pink http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ABNSP...

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