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Very crisp and clean, I like it. Sixth knife? Outstanding!

What's "prorietary" about it? Straightening warped steel involves heat and clamping pressure or a little whomping. It's not rocket science. It is fairly common for blades to warp or even twist somewhat during HT, but most guys who HT their own blades straighten them out while they're still warm...

I'm not surprised that other 'Dogs feel like I do... I wouldn't let that out the door in the first place, but if I did, I'd rather re-make the whole order rather than be embarrassed by a warped knife, and an unhappy client. My name is all I really have in this world, and I've made business...

That's not one of mine, is it?!? :52: :biggrin: That's not "normal". However, you did know about it before completing the deal so whether or not the maker owes you to correct it could be iffy. It doesn't hurt to ask, though. If it were me I'd want the knife back and get it right, just for my...

That statement makes me very uneasy. I rely on mechanical fasteners to hold my knives together, but would really like to find an adhesive or sealant that I can promise will keep moisture out of the mating surfaces. One thing I notice about manu's specs about epoxies is, they're very impressive...

Well that's an interesting question! I've only seen it done after HT, but I imagine the bleach would erode the steel more quickly before it's hardened. I'm just guessing at this next bit, don't blame me if it doesn't work! You could also hammer on the annealed steel after your main grinding...

I find it amusing that you're disappointed in how clean your blades are out of the quench! Most folks have the opposite problem. Anyway, you can the imperfect surface you're looking for by soaking or splattering the blade with bleach. Leaving the bleach on longer will result in more effect...

Randy, Tracy's right that's a great story and you know we'd love to see those pics. If I ever start doing shows I think I'm going to steal your idea. ;)

You know me, I'm here to help :biggrin:

CPM-154 is really hard to beat for a stainless steel. CTS-XHP beats it, by a small margin. I'm going to go out on a limb and say forget about A2 and D2. If you're looking to try something new, why take a step 40 years backwards in steel technology? They're more difficult to work with than the...

I'm not naming names, but I've seen some $300+ factory knives with fit, finish and edges most 'Dogs would laugh at. Not to mention mediocre materials and balance like a brick. Yet they sell like hotcakes and command a handsome profit in the secondary market. Your guess is as good as mine.

Temper right after cryo, no matter what your grinding schedule is. You want to relieve the stress in that hardened steel right away. Grinding before temper is a sure recipe for disaster. I would shoot for 58-59Rc on 440C, may as well make the most of its edge-holding properties. It sounds like...

Brother, you just described nearly every knife I ever made! The few ones that come together right the first time really make me nervous, I always wonder what I missed... :biggrin:

It's kind of art-deco. I think it's elegant.

Like Justin said, you need a round surface to make a smooth inside curve. Rotary tools like Dremels and Foredoms work well, or you can adapt and improvise.

Cool, thanks Tracy :)

Some people want the best. I tell 'em this, a $1000 used Yugo will more or less get you back and forth to work, yet Ferrari sells $200,000 sports cars as fast as they can make them. Then again there are lots of guys with $5000 custom rifles and $30,000 fishing boats who clean their kill...

440C is so 1980! ;) For stainless, I prefer Carpenter CTS-XHP, with Crucible CPM-154 a very close second. If corrosion-resistance isn't a big concern, it's hard to beat O1. Won't hold an edge as long as XHP or CPM-154 by a long shot, though.

Mike, they were only kidding when they said the robin was the state bird. It's really a toss-up between the skeeters and deer-flies. I remember Queenie and Ron's, not sure if they're still in business. But you can still get plenty greasy food and cheap beer pretty much anywhere ;)

What girt/medium do you guys like for blasting G10? Will the same grit or type put a reaonably similar finish on the blade as well, if you do it all at one time?