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I made two of these and sold one of them this weekend, I've had it since June but I didn't bump it's sales threads because I wanted to save it for G2. So here it is again with a small price adjustment, the specs are: Blade - 2.6", .140 thick CPM S30V, w/blasted and tumbled finish. Handle -...

I have a large model 9 available, the specs are: Blade - 4-3/16" x .200 thick CPM S35VN, two tone satin finished. Handle - 5-3/16", .090 thick ti liners, orange peeled ti bolsters and carbon fiber scales Overall - 9-3/8" Pivot - 1/4" hardened precision pivot w/IKBS Other - Stainless deep...

I started out making lockbacks and I grew to hate them after about a year, when I started messing around with linerlocks I quickly got hooked on the one handed operation and hated to mess with a knife that took both hands to operate. Now that I've been making flippers it's sort of gone a step...

There are no tang pins, zen pins cover both open and closed stops. I use hardened dowel pins (3/32" on these)

I'll be there as an exhibitor, this will be my 1st time to Idaho and it's the 1st time for this show so it's hard to say what the show will be like, it looks like there are a good number of well known makers attending so that could help attendance but I'm pretty sure the NY show is also sometime...

There is a similar problem with older men like myself. Over many years of going to a doctor (not too often) with something you think could be something serious or the start of something serious and the doctor basically tells you to man up (maybe not in those words) and deal with it and then you...

I didn't have any problem drilling the hole (it's still there, open to this day :) ) and 1200 is about where I turned it on.

I used a stainless tube, drilled a hole in the side of my oven toward the back. One of the problems I found was the soak times for stainless (you might not have that problem with O1), I had to soak at preheat and at the final temp, thats 40 min minimum, plus the time it takes to get from prehear...

I did it with my evenheat a few years back and I wasn't happy with the results. I went through my 75CF tank in record time and the blades didn't seem near as clean as when BOS does them. I think part of the problem was not keeping the argon on them while they cooled (I wasn't plate quenching...

I don't know if I'll be able to get all of these done in time, a couple of them are to be delivered at the show and I still have to cut liners for one more Titan when I get the ti in. I'm hoping to heat treat tomorrow, then I can give my shop little bit of a cleaning while they soak.

I've been threatening to make more bali's for a couple years now and so I'm finally getting to it and should have them done for the USN show in Las Vegas. I'll try to get some more progress photos as I go but I'm still filling orders too so it's hard to know if I'll actually be able to keep up...

That one for the folders, i used to use teflon washers because they seemed smoother to me but others say nylatron is smoother, nylatron is for sure tougher than teflon and will experience less smashing (loss of thickness) over time. For the balis: before I started using IKBS I used a bronze...

Solid carbide, I know they are expensive but I don't know if the carbide tipped ones will work (I'm not even sure I've seen a carbide tipped ream) Make sure you use a good lubricant, Todd mentioned Emuge but I'm using some stuff that Jake bought from Tracy and it seems to work well.

It's just another color scheme, it's the one I'm most comfortable with for some reason. Go to the bottom left and there is a drop down with several choices of skins.

Murph has it exactly right, in a few months you'll forget about the differences and you'll be moving smoothly around the new forum.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#barrel-laps/=84plcs Here's another one, it's at the bottom. Sizes 1/8" and up.

I think I managed to squeeze most everything in that last post except that it's probably not absolutely necessary to clamp the blade down for the reaming. The idea is to knock off the edge of the hole 1st with the ball mill then your reamer will center in that hole, the ream will want to stick...