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The 11" piece(s) could make a nice field/camp knife, bowie or fighter. 7" is a little short for the 1/4" thickness, that would be more useful to someone with a forge, who could draw out a stick tang and forge the blade to shape to gain some length on it.

I have 2, and could probably get by with 1 but why? Saves setup and changeover time, and gives you a back up machine if you're ever stuck waiting for parts on one. Plus mine are both single speed, so it helps to have one set up faster for hogging and another running slower for post-HT grinding...

Congrats to your friend, that's an anniversary worth being grateful for and a really nice knife to commemorate it.

Crucible's spec sheet for cpm154 actually suggests the dry ice cryo for converting RA and goes into a little detail about tempering before vs tempering after.

God Bless you and yours, Michael, you are included in my prayers.

Thanks for the updates and for your efforts on this, guys. I hope the knives give good service.

I started out in this boat not too long ago. There really is no quick and easy answer, you have to invest time, money, or both in gaining presence and visibility. The forums are a good place to do this but you may have to list pieces for a year or more before some buyers feel familiar enough...

The super glue trick works for drilling lined up holes through just about anything except wood, it will leave a chunk of wood stuck on whathever you glue it to and is a great way to ruin a set of scales.

cyanoacrylate= super glue

Put a 2x4 in the vise edgewise and use a 4" or 5" c-clamp to fix the blade down to this. It supports the blade to keep it from bending (you might have to use shims to make this part work) and will keep you from impaling yourself on the blade, which is easy to do. If you don't do something...

Welcome!

Welcome, seems we have had a lot of new members from AZ lately.

Thank you, Eric. That was very well said.

It's pretty much an eyeball and feel operation any way you do it. With stock that thin I would probably just straighten by hand, and would expect to have to do some correcting after HT.

Welcome Bobby! This is probably the friendliest knife forum on the net and a good place to learn and ask questions. My family and I are grateful for your service. Hope to talk to you more at some point, enjoy!

http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1084.html 1-You will want to normalize (air cool) from 1600, I would do this 2 more times and decrease the temp 20-30 degrees each time. 2-After that is the austenizing heat, 1500F for long enough to equalize the temp, then quench, preferably in fast oil...

I would like to hear thoughts on this as well, I've been giving thought to how to go about taking payment at knife/gun shows.

I agree, very nice work!

Lookit my name in there and I didn't even enter! Thanks Steve and congrats to Denny!

I would like to run into him one day, if fate smiles on me like that, and talk about swords for a little while. Forging a sword is usually what a kid has in mind when he picks up Jim's book, after all! Grinding a couple of little knives on a 6" bench grinder put that in perspective pretty...