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A hidden tang is only as strong or weak as the design and materials allow, the same as a full tang. All else being equal (and assuming that the full-tang maker hasn't gone and drilled a fastener hole right in the middle of a finger notch), the full tang knife may be stonger than a hidden tang...

Didn't really occur to me that I had ordered one of the 80 grit 984F belts recently from Tracy. Not even sure why, I think I meant to order something else, so it may have been a mistake but if so it was a happy one:) I tried it today for the first time to re-surface the platen for one of my...

I have only done them once and I cut them after the blade was heat treated, using small diamond files to establish the initial grooves and the spacing, then using a carbide grit hacksaw blade (sold at home improvement/hardware stores for hand cutting ceramic tile, etc-sometimes called a rod saw)...

I use the 3M 967s for heavy work. They out cut anything else I have tried for straight hogging. Once they do go dull on bevels I use them for profile grinding, they get a little of the old bite back and will profile blades for quite a while.

Congratulations to you both! It's good to hear from you, Murph.

It makes sense to hand-sand wet but most grinders are not well set up for wet grinding and the belts move too fast. Mostly what you would end up doing is spraying water all over yourself and your shop. Once the water dries, the dust will still be there but will be harder to clean up. Not to...

It will probably depend on the configuration of the machine itself to some extent. I have seen them done with the motor bolted to a hinged mounting plate, so that the weight of the motor itself provides the tension on the drive belt.

Sounds like trouble, we'll keep an eye on the news!

I think 1.50$ to 2.00$ per pound is the going rate for used anvils that are in useable condition (its been a while since I was in the market so I could be wrong about that). I would look for indications that the main surface is a welded on plate, if it looks to be cast all in one piece then the...

I would thread the hole in the stud as suggested, then grind the slot/recess off of the head of the screw you will use to attach it. Use glue to fix it in the hole from the back, then thread the stud onto it tightly, with Loctite in the threads to make it permanent. The smooth screw head should...

Looks good Steve! I would cut more jimping notches in the 3 wide spaces between, then widen all of the notches as needed to even out the gaps between. You would be surprised how even you can get them this way.

Good progress, I haven't managed to touch mine yet. I will be interested to hear how this stuff grinds post-HT.

This is interesting stuff. Maybe we should have a "knife myth" subforum for this kind if thing.

If you already have parts like a motor, or steel for tooling arms, then the GIB will save you $. If you have to go retail for every component then it becomes less and less of a savings. Your own inclinations and capabilities regarding a home build are also a factor, if you don't want to have to...

I have a GIB also, it is really just a frame or chassis kit and you have to add the motor, tooling arm, platen, small wheel holder, etc. It uses KMG tooling, so for my 2 cents it's probably very comparable to a KMG clone in all the important aspects. I also have a Coote and it is not a bad...

The sheath may take a few days to dry out after wet forming, depending on the relative humidity. To wet form, I usually give the knife a coat of oil, then wrap it tightly with saran wrap to protect it from the wet leather, and remove it periodically while the sheath is drying to be sure there is...

It is less of an issue for those of us who can choose when to go hiking:) The biggest issue I have seen with bead blasted carbon steel is when it gets left in a wet sheath, which can produce rust in an astonishing hurry. Most of us can probably avoid that problem easily enough, but soldiers...

Prayers sent. God Bless, I hope to hear of recoveries from both of you.

I typo'd-Only 1 in 4 wanted the Molle Loks. The Tek Loks have been more popular among my mil customers to date.

Lookin' good, James! I don't imagine that there would be an issue with the name/maker's mark, there is no requirement for sterile equipment in regular units, that I know of. If anyone knows different then by all means, speak up! A lot of guys do appreciate a non-reflective finish but a satin...