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You should have no problem with a mill like that, other than the typical rough edges on the castings they never bother to finish off. For knifemaking, a mill that size is probably just fine, and the price looks comfortable as well.

Well-executed as always, James. Looking at this setup gives me some inspiration to improve my own. Thanks!

I am seriously-impressed with your knifemaking prowess, Erin. I like the way you approach finding solutions to problems. I like your sense of humor. This WIP and the rest of your work is an inspiration to all of us, old and new.

As someone who builds machinery myself, I have to say that I am impressed with your design and execution, Rick.

This is my method as well.

Excellent design and quality.

My tappers will hold taps from 6-32 to 0-80. A very handy item when tapping into Ti folder liners. You can feel every thread perfectly. I want to apologize to anyone who may think that I am posting these for advertising purposes. I am not. In fact, it will most-likely be several months...

Some of you guys remember when I was selling these little hand tappers about 10 years ago. I will begin making them again soon. :-)

I agree 100% with everything you said, Ed. You can always do smaller work on a big mill, but never the reverse. Precision will ALWAYS be easier with the larger mill. Tooling and fixtures will ALWAYS be more available. The caveat here is that mini-mills are good for some stuff, especially if you...

This thread has definitely given me some ideas for my own shop. I've been an industrial machinery mechanic most of my life, and I've seen some seriously-bad accidents, and I definitely err to the side of caution when making choices for my own shop. The last place I worked for polished steel...

Holy smokes, I didn't realize how many years ago I took this pic - look at that cell phone!

Here's a blast from the past: I hope to be making these again soon.

I scan the Craigslist ads a lot. I'm always looking for a deal on stuff I like, and of course, stuff to get my knifemaking shop going again. One of the things I came across this morning was a nice Maytag kitchen stove with the flat top and all stainless, and I thought - why not have one in the...

I'm a second-generation machinist, and I have never heard of breaking-in a bandsaw blade. Growing up in my father's shop, he never mentioned it either. Not trying to be difficult or drift the thread, but I'm dubious as to whether its worth any effort at all. Wear on tooling is just that: wear...

The reason I ask this is because I have been thinking about plate-quenching some 440C or some other stainless like maybe S30V. I'm thinking that would be a pretty tough and resilient short sword. I'm thinking right now a 20" blade. Any thoughts would really be welcomed.

Are there any stainless steels that lend themselves to a sword design? How about our old standby, 440C? Would that be a tough-enough steel for a decent short sword?

Bruce, I notice that you have a parrot vise. I do also. What is the padding that you use? It looks like black rubber.

I cant say that I am fond of the G10 guard, but that handle is very nice! I love the embellishments at the butt. Very nice.

love it!

Your work is inspiring, Bruce. You are becoming an icon.